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  • 10/6/2021

    Trying new things on your Janome machine is a great way to feed your creative spirit! Whether it is a new technique, tool, or even if it is just going outside of what you usually do, it can be exhilarating! Janome Maker Meredith from Olivia Jane Handcrafted is trying out the embroidery feature on her Janome Skyline S9 + Janome Artistic Digitizer Software! 

     

    I've been sewing on my Skyline S9 for a few years now. At first, I was rather intimidated by the embroidery features of the machine, but once I decided to dive in, I realized how much versatility that the machine has when paired with Janome's Artistic Digitizer software. The Janome Artistic Digitizer software is extremely powerful, and my favorite part is that I can take artwork I love and digitize it for embroidery. One of the first projects I did when learning the software was a collection of framed embroidery made from images of some of my favorite fabrics. Today I'm going to show you how you too can create a beautifully textured embroidery based on a favorite fabric. I have framed mine, but you can feature it on a shirt, a pillow, bag, or whatever you like! 

     

     

     

    framed embroidery tutorial

     

    important note: Because this is a project-based off on the artwork (fabric) of someone else, please keep in mind that without express written permission, it would be entirely unethical and illegal to sell or distribute work you make that is created using the art of another person. So do this only for your own personal enjoyment and do give credit when posting. This tutorial is for private use only. I am using a digital image of a very favorite fabric, Fable by Anna Bond of Rifle Paper Co. Prior to uploading the image to Janome Artistic Digitizer, I cleaned up the surrounding motifs in PixlrX, which is just a free online editing program that makes it easy to remove other parts of an image. Once I had gotten the image down to only the rabbit I wanted to stitch, I opened the Janome Artistic Digitizer Software and opened a new project for the RE20 hoop, which is the largest hoop available for the Skyline S9.

     

    new artistic project

     

    I selected the image, which I had saved as a PNG, and then made the following selections:

    open image

     

     

    image selection

     

     

    If you do not want to stitch the background, you must be sure to select the background button and then click the background with the dropper that will appear so that it disappears as seen above. I limited the number of colors to four initially, then brought it down to two once opened the image.

     

     

    image placement

     

     

    I rotated and centered the image in the hoop, and when I opened the color manager, and easily changed the color selection from four to two. It just removed the variation in the darker colors. I knew I was just going to be stitching in black and white, so there was no need to deal with thread changes on the machine when I had no intention of changing the colors so many times. By the way, you can totally change the colors to exactly what you will be using to stitch with, but I find that just changing the number of colors is fine, because I can just use whatever colors I want once I go to stitch it out on the machine. Now the important thing to do is to go to the toolbar, click Auto and then Optimize. I did a simple optimization that rearranges the sequence for the most efficient color order. Anytime you are doing your own thing for embroidery, you need to optimize, otherwise, you could easily have a hundred color changes which would take forever.

     

     

    export

     

     

     

    If your embroidery mockup looks good, then you are ready to save it as a .JEF file then export it. I exported to a USB drive, but the Skyline S9 has wifi capability and can be exported that way, or by plugging in directly to your device. Make sure that your machine is set up for embroidery per the manual instructions, and prepare your fabric and hoop for embroidery. I am using a cotton muslin backed with interfacing and then hooped up with embroidery stabilization paper. Again, I'm using the RE20a hoop. Open your embroidery file on your machine, and start stitching. I love to just sit back and watch the embroidery come to life!

     

     

    begin embroidery

     

    First, my Skyline S9 outlined my rabbit, then began to fill it in. Finally, the texture was added.

     

    embroidery 1embroidery 2

     

    Once the stitching was complete, about half an hour later, I removed the hoop and trimmed my fabric down to the needed size.

    completed embroidery       completed embroidery 2

     

    I picked up this fantastic custom gold leaf frame from my local AmVets (a thrift store benefitting veterans) for only $1.98. I took it apart, removed the angel picture that it was holding and after painting the current cream color matte black with some acrylic paint, I remounted the frame.

    framed fable embroidery

     

    I now have the beginning of a new gallery wall above our couch. The quilt you see here was made with Rifle Paper Co's Wildwood collection, which features the Fable print that I used for this embroidery art. We love small animals like rabbits and squirrels, so this was the perfect piece to add to our wall!

    framed embroidery

     

    The sky is totally the limit when you can create your own embroidery! I hope this will inspire you to create pieces that you love with your embroidery machine and Janome's Artistic software! I'll be adding some more pieces to my gallery wall with this method.

    framed embroidery 2

     

    Check out some of my other Skyline S9 projects HERE, and see the rest of my tutorials HERE. -Meredith

  • 10/4/2021

     

     

    Janome Maker Carolyn Norman from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic is taking inspiration from the runways and The Met Gala and created a wonderful tutorial for you to make your own look to walk the runway or where ever you want to feel stylish! 

    I sew on a Janome 9450QCP which is a Quilter's sewing machine.  However, as a garment sewist, the machine has so many quilting features I adore.  This month I decided to explore the 9450QCP's quilting abilities by making a patchwork dress. For Fall 2022, several designers have shared patchwork and quilted garments in their collections which inspired this dress.

     

     

     

    First materials ~

    Most quilters use quilting cotton for their quilts. While the designers I was inspired by used silk in their garments, I decided to go with denim which is a more practical solution for my lifestyle. Also, there's such an interest in sustainable sewing in the sewing community right now, I took this opportunity to make my dress primarily from scrap pieces and remnants leftover from other makes.

    Pattern ~

    I used the Style Arc Jema Panel Dress as my starting point. However, any simple tunic or shift dress pattern would work to recreate this look. I also chose to highlight one patchwork section of the fabrics used in this dress, as well as the piecing the pattern suggests.

    Construction ~

    Basically sewed this dress using the quarter-inch foot and the straight stitch plate to insure that my seams were exactly a quarter inch. Cause I'm not a precise sewist so I need all of the help I can get! 

     


    I took one section of the pattern and measured out six blocks...

     

     

    Then I added 1/4" seam allowances all the way around...

     

     

     

    Pieced those sections together first before making the rest of the dress...

     

     

     

    A few close-ups of the patchwork on the dress...

     

     

     

    As with a quilt, I added a lining to cover the patchwork seams of the dress...

     

    To finish the neckline I inserted piping that was applied using the piping foot and the topstitching was done with the quarter-inch foot.

     

     

     

     

    Otherwise, this was a straight sew.  Okay, okay not really. I tore the dress front apart and recut some of the blocks three times to get a patchwork mix that I liked. I think that's also something quilters experience when trying to get the block to look right!

     

    Anyway here are few pictures of the finished garment...

     

     

     

     

     

    The 9450QCP made sewing the patchwork so easy! Having the enhanced lighting, the extra space to move my dress around, and all of the sewing feet to make each task simple to do is why I love the machine so much!

     

     

     

     

  • 10/2/2021

    The Log Cabin block is timeless and classic! While there are hundreds of variations of the Log Cabin pattern, the simplicity of the basic Log Cabin has always been a favorite for its ease of learning for beginners! 

    Janome Maker Annabel Wrigley takes you through the steps of making a Log Cabin Pillow on her Janome Contential M7

     

     

    This is the perfect beginner-friendly sewing project that you can whip up in a jiffy. With the holidays around the corner, they make the perfect gift!
    Supply List:
    . Strips of 7 different colors. Strips need to measure 2 ¾” wide.
    . 17 x 17” batting
    . 17 x 17” backing for the quilted front.
    . 16 ¼ x 12” pieces (x2) for the pillow back
    . Basic sewing supplies

     

    This project is sewn with a ¼” seam allowance.
    1. Start with a center square measuring 2 ¾ x 2 ¾”
    2. Attach a second 2 ¾ x 2 ¾” square. Use the above diagram for placement.
    Press the seam open.
    3. Roughly cut the next strip (3) and attach it according to the diagram. Press the seam open and trim to size.
    4. Continue adding strips in this way, trimming and pressing as you go.
    The above diagram will show you the order of the strip sewing.
    When the log cabin is completed, you may need to give the piece another trim to square things up.
    The finished panel should measure 16 ¼ x 16 ¼.
    5. Create a quilt sandwich with batting in the middle and a piece of fabric on the back.
    I like to use a basting spray to hold everything together.
    6. Quilt the piece using your preferred quilting method. See the video below for my favorite method.

    7. Trim the extra batting and backing from the quilted front.
    8. Fold down one long edge ½” on both of the pillow back pieces. Press. Now fold that edge over again and press.
    9. Topstitch close to the edge of the fold.
    10. With the quilted front facing up, lay one side of the backing face down on top.
    11. Add the second side – they will overlap in the middle.
    12. Pin around all sides of the pillow.
    13. Sew around all sides with a ¼” seam allowance.
    14. Snip off the corners.
    To prevent fraying you can zig-zag or serge the raw edges.
    Turn the pillow right side out and add a 16" pillow form and Voila!
    Stuff with a 16" pillow form and enjoy!
  • 9/29/2021

     

     

    Welcome Back to the Janome Rainbow Quilt Block of the Month designed by Janome Maker Carolina Oneto!

    This month we will make our eighth block. The Ohio Star quilt block was popular in the 1930s Depression-era and post-Depression quilts. It was a popular design among Scottish and Irish immigrants in the Midwest, and Amish quilters regularly employed it.

     

     

    I sew all the blocks on my Janome 1600P-QC , I recommend you to use a stitch length between 2.0 and 2.2 anyway this amazing sewing machine is capable of stitch length variables up to a maximum of 6mm!

     

    Please read through all of the instructions prior to starting this block. The block will have a finished size of 12” so that means the unfinished size will be 12 1/2."  All seam allowances are 1/4" unless otherwise indicated.

     

     

     

    Fabrics:

    White background

    • One 7 1/4” square
    • Two 5 1/2” square
    • One 4 1/2” square

     Red 1

    •  One 7 1/4” square
    • One  5 1/2” square

    Red 2

    • One  5 1/2” square

     

    Instructions for making HST four at a time:

     

    • Make four half-square triangles.
    • Place a white and colored fabric (red 1) square (7 1/4”) right sides together.
    • Sew a 1/4″ seam allowance all around the perimeter of the square.
    • Make two diagonal cuts and press each piece open to one side.
    • Trim away the dog ears using a square quilting ruler, you will obtain four 4 1/2” HST

     

     

     

    Instructions for making HST two at a time:

     

    Do this process with the 2 white squares of 5 1/2” and the two squares of the same size in red 1 and red 2. You will assemble 4 half-square triangles.

     

     

     

    INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE QUARTER SQUARE TRIANGLES:

    • To make a QST take two HST’s from the previous step (one red 1 and one red 2) and place them right sides together with opposite colors touching.
    • Use a pencil or water soluble marker and draw a line from corner to corner, bisecting the HST seam.
    • On both sides of the diagonal line, stitch a 1/4” seam.
    • Using an acrylic quilter’s ruler and rotary cutter, cut along the pencil line.
    • Trim the blocks to a 4 1/2” square

     

     

     

    FINAL ASSEMBLY:

    • Arrange your blocks in the correct layout
    • Using a quarter-inch seam allowance, sew together in rows. Join all rows, using a quarter-inch seam allowance.
    • Press your completed block and trim down to 12.5″ square (if necessary).

     

     

     

    Your block is now complete! I hope you enjoy this new block! And don’t forget to share it!

     

     

    You can still start today and catch up with the Janome Rainbow Block of the Month by visiting the links below:

    Block One     HERE

    Block Two     HERE

    Block Three  HERE

    Block Four    HERE

    Block Five    HERE

    Block Six      HERE 

    Block Seven  HERE   

     

     

    After you make your block, we’d love to see them!

    Janome Sewing Classroom

    Janome America Instagram – Be sure to tag @janomeamerica and use the hashtag #janomemakes and also tag @carolinaoneto!

      

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • 9/28/2021

    Photo Sep 21, 11 08 23 AM (2)

    A Tutorial: How to Make a Whole Cloth Quilted Pillow Cover with Envelope Style Back in Sizes 12" square to 24" Square
    Whole-cloth quilted pillows made using your Janome sewing machine is a wonderful and easy way to bring heirloom-quality style into your home, freshen up your decor, and enjoy favorite fabrics year-round, using just a few simple steps! In this tutorial, I'll show you how to use two different built-in stitches on your machine to quilt the pillow fronts and how to finish the pillow with an envelope style back in SIX different sizes. Let's get started!

    1

    Materials List:
    Janome Sewing Machine (Horizon Quilt Maker Memory Craft 15000)
    walking foot for your sewing machine (optional)
    fabric depending on the pillow size (Plaid of My Dreams by Maureen Cracknell for AGF)
    batting (Hobbs Tuscany Supreme 100% Unbleached Cotton) 
    pillow insert or pillow you'd like to cover (Hobbs Pillow Pals)
    neutral thread (Aurifil 50wt 6010, 2692)
    basting spray or basting pins
    scissors or rotary cutter/mat
    hera marker or disappearing fabric marker to premark the quilting lines (optional)
    iron
     
    Size 12" x 12" square: one 12.5" x 12.5" square for main fabric, one 14" x 14" square of batting, two pieces of fabric measuring 11.5" x 12.5" for backing fabrics, two pieces of batting 13" x 14" for backing batting
    Size 14" x 14" square: one 14.5" x 14.5" square for main fabric, one 16" x 16" square of batting, two pieces of fabric measuring 12.5" x 14.5" for backing fabrics, two pieces of batting 14" x 16" for backing batting
    Size 16" x 16" square: one 16.5" x 16.5" square for main fabric, one 18" x 18" square of batting, two pieces of fabric measuring 13.5" x 16.5" for backing fabrics, two pieces of batting 15" x 18" for backing batting
    Size 18" x 18" square: one 18.5" x 18.5" square for main fabric, one 20" x 20" square of batting, two pieces of fabric measuring 14.5" x 18.5" for backing fabrics, two pieces of batting 16" x 20" for backing batting
    Size 20" x 20" square: one 20.5" x 20.5" square for main fabric, one 22" x 22" square of batting, two pieces of fabric measuring 15.5" x 20.5" for backing fabrics, two pieces of batting 17" x 22" for backing batting
    Size 24" x 24" square: one 24.5" x 24.5" square for main fabric, one 26" x 26" square of batting, two pieces of fabric measuring 17.5" x 24.5" for backing fabrics, two pieces of batting 19" x 26" for backing batting

    Whole Cloth Pillow Supplies

    Step 1. Quilting the pillow top pillow: Layer the batting with the pillow front fabric on top facing right side up on a flat surface. Pin or use a spray to baste these two layers together.

    Baste Layers

    The first pillow example is quilted using the built-in straight quilting stitch #1 on my Janome set at a stitch width of 4.5 and stitch length of 4.0.

    Janome Sewing

    Following the plaid pattern of the fabric I created a grid-like quilting design. If using a different fabric to achieve this similar quilting pattern premark the quilting lines using a hera or disappearing ink marker before quilting.

    Quilted Pillow Front

    The second pillow example is quilted using the built-in wavy quilting stitch #8 on my Janome set at a stitch width of 9.0 and stitch length of 4.0. Adding the wavy quilting both horizontally and vertically created a really fun pattern here that really pops!

    Photo Sep 17, 6 26 52 PM

    Once quilting is complete trim away access fabric and batting to the desired pillow size. The first pillow example (beige/white gingham) is trimmed to 14" square for a 14" pillow insert. The second pillow example (black/buffalo plaid) is trimmed to 16" square for a 16" pillow insert.
    Step 2. Quilting Pillow Back Pieces: Just as you did for the pillow front, layer each backing piece of batting with the pillow back piece of fabric on top facing right side up on a flat surface. Pin or use spray to baste these two layers together for both backing pieces. Mark quilting line again if needed and quilt the same as you did for the pillow front.

    pin in place

    To hem, fold over one long edge of the top back piece about 1/4 inch and then again. Pin and sew along the folded edge and outer edge to create a double seam finish. Repeat these steps for the bottom backing piece, as well.

    hem raw edge

    double hem finish

    Step 3. Sew Together Pillow Pieces: Lay the quilted pillow front right side up on a flat surface, then layer the top quilted pillow backing piece with the right side facing the pillow front onto the pillow front, then the bottom backing piece.

    layer pillow back piece onto pillow front

    pillow backing

    Pin or clip all three layers together.

    pin in place

    Sew using a 1/4 inch seam all the way around the pillow attaching all three layers to create the pillow cover, removing pins or clips as you go.

    1/4" seam all the way around

    For extra durability I then use the zig zag stitch on my machine to sew around the entire pillow again staying close to the raw edge to reinforce the seams.

    double secure with zig zag stitch

    For nice pointed pillow corners, I then sew a small diagonal stitch on the outside of each corner and clip away each of the four corners as shown below.

    clip four corners

    Turn the pillow cover right side out and press to make it nice and smooth before adding the pillow insert.

    turn pillow cover out and press

    Carefully stuff the pillow insert inside the pillow cover. making sure to work the corners of the insert into the corners of the pillow cover. Now you're ready to admire and enjoy your handmade quilted pillow!

    insert pillow form and done!

    Photo Sep 21, 11 10 43 AM

    Care and Maintenance: Remove insert and machine wash cover in cold water; gentle cycle. Lay flat to air dry or tumble dry on the lowest heat setting; remove promptly. Use a warm iron as needed to smooth out any wrinkles before reinserted the pillow insert.

    Photo Sep 21, 11 07 23 AM

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!
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