Techniques

Create Your Own Serger Stitches

Author: Maddie Bushman

According to the RULES all serger stitches have recommended settings for predetermined stitches. Whether it is a four thread overlock, rolled hem, or flatlock etc. There are specific tension adjustments in most manuals to achieve a balance of thread coverage on the fabric.

Often times when the thread tensions are not set according to recommendation an unknown stitch type is formed. We think that the stitch is incorrect and strive to make the proper adjustments to achieve the desired result.

Well, just because the recommended settings are not used does not mean that the “new” stitch is not right, just different. One such stitch is what may be called a “Braid Stitch”. This stitch can be achieved by putting decorative thread in both loopers and using only the right needle (size 14). Make the following adjustments to create this “new” stitch that brings both of the decorative threads to the top to form a mock braid. This is a great finish for a fleece throw.

Right Needle – 4
Upper Looper – 9
Lower Looper – 2
Stitch length – Between the “R” and 2
Differential Feed – 1.0
Disengage the stitch finger or set to “R”


Another idea for a different stitch is the “Backside Blanket Stitch”. This stitch creates a Blanket Stitch on the underside of the fabric (bottom). Here is a great idea for edging fleece, felt or any heavier fabric using regular polyester serger thread. Make the following adjustments to get this fun and easy finishing stitch.

 

Right Needle( size 14) – 5 
Upper Looper – 1
Lower Looper – 9
Stitch Length – 4-5
Differential Feed – 1 – 0.5
Engage Stitch Finger for Standard Serging
Adjust the cutting blade – one full turn to move the blade more to the right.

Have you ever wanted a variegated metallic thread but couldn’t find the right color combination? How about creating your own thread color? A thread palette can be used for feeding more than one thread through a looper or just setting them behind the serger will work as well. Other than the desired metallic thread, using regular polyester serger thread or decorative thread in the upper looper will give that glitzy look to the final stitch.

Make the following adjustments to create your own customized thread color.

Left Neele (size 14)– 4 
Upper Looper – 5 (Feed threads as if they were just one thread through all the thread guides and the tension disk)
Lower Looper - 4
Stitch Length – 3
Differential Feed – 1.0
Engage Stitch Finger for Standard Serging

Note – adjust the lower looper tension slider to “RH” 

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