Level: Intermediate - Advanced

Using a Twin needle to create these embossed designs is easy and fun to do. Just trace the garment pattern pieces and the designs onto water soluble stabilizer, pin the stabilizer in place on your fleece, and embellish with a Twin needle.

Print full-size patterns and layout diagram.

• Layout
• Pattern A
• Pattern DC

Requires the free Acrobat Reader 3.0 or greater.

Janome New Home Supplies Required:

• Any Memory Craft machine
• 2 spools Janome Transparent thread
• Roller foot
• Twin needle, anywhere from 2.0/#14 to 3.0/#14 (the area between the needles is up to you)

Fabric and Notions Required:

• Jacket Pattern that has the sleeves and a front and back yoke all in one piece, or adapt a pattern that you already have to meet the requirements
• Fleece fabric - 1/4 yd. more than pattern requires (1/4 yard is for experimenting)
• Water soluble stabilizer - amount determined by the yardage required for the sleeve and front and back yoke
• All-purpose thread to match fleece
• Spray adhesive (optional)

Please read instructions carefully before beginning to sew.

Instructions:
Embellishment Placement:

1. Using a permanent marker, trace the pattern pieces for the areas of the garment that is to be embellished onto water soluble stabilizer.
2. Draw a line down the center of each pattern piece. Draw a line two inches away from the centerline on each side. This forms a four-inch wide column down the center of the pattern piece.
3. Continue drawing columns as shown on the General Layout Diagram. Please note that the "D" columns may be narrower than 41/2". The width of the "D" column will depend on the size of your pattern piece.
4. Trace pattern "A" in the center of the "A" column, repeating as necessary.
5. Trace just four lines of pattern "D" across the "D" column. Note: Instead of tracing all those lines, you can use your quilt guide to create evenly spaced lines.
6. Cut pieces of fleece approximately 1" larger than the water soluble pattern pieces. Pin the water soluble stabilizer to the fleece. Or spray the water soluble stabilizer with a spray adhesive and place on fleece.

Beginning to Sew:

1. Insert Twin needle into the Memory Craft.
   Note: While inserting the Twin Needle make sure that the flat side of the shank goes towards the back of the machine just like your regular needles.
2. Snap on the Roller foot.
3. Wind a bobbin with all-purpose thread to match your fleece fabric and place in bobbin holder.
4. Thread both needles with Janome Transparent thread. Place the auxiliary spool pin in the auxiliary spool pin holder with a sp9ool cap cover inverted on which to set the second spool of thread. Thread as normal, except separate the threads at the last thread guide above the needle. Place one thread in the left thread guide and the other in the right thread guide and then thread the needles from the front to back.
5. Increase the upper thread tension slightly.
   Note: On the Memory Craft 9000 press the ADJ Key. Press the "+" on the Auto Tension to highlight. If you tighten the upper thread tension here it will stay tightened as you change stitches. If you tighten the upper thread tension on the Visual Touch Screen, you will need to adjust each time you select a stitch.

For all other Memory Crafts, increase the upper thread tension to 6.

Sewing Column "A":

1. Select stitch (Straight Stitch - center needle position)
   • For Memory Craft 9000, 5700, 5000, 3500, and 3000 machines use stitch #1.
   • For MC 8000 use stitch #2.
   • For MC 4000 use stitch #10.
2. Increase the stitch length to 3.0.
3. Sew the straight lines that form the division between the columns.
   Note: DO NOT sew the centerline in the middle of column "A".
4. Sew the pattern in column "A". Use the same straight stitch with the length at 3.0. Begin at the top and sew over to the pattern line to the first corner. Turn the handwheel so that the needles hover just above the surface of the fabric. Pivot the fabric. Insert the needles into the fabric. The needles should enter the pervious row of stitching forming a small square at the corner.
5. Continue sewing back and forth in a zig-zag pattern to complete column "A".

Sewing Column "B":

1. Select stitch (Decorative stitch)
   Memory Craft 9000 -- #141
   MC 8000 -- #65
   MC5700 -- #66
   MC 5000 -- #18
   MC 4000 -- #68
   MC 3500 -- #24
   MC 3000 -- #25
2. Press the Width/Length Key. The suggested stitches are preset at the stitch width 7.0. Subtract the width of the double needle that you are using. This is the maximum width that can be sewn without breaking the needle. If you are using a:
   3.0 needle - 7.0 - 3.0 = 4.0 maximum width of stitch
   2.5 needle - 7.0 - 2.5 = 4.5 maximum width of stitch
   2.0 needle - 7.0 - 2.0 = 5.0 maximum width of stitch
3. Sew down the center of column "B".

Sewing Column "C":

1. Select the straight stitch used in sewing column "A". Don't forget to increase the stitch length to 3.0.
2. Sew the pattern down the center of column "C", pivoting at the corners.

Sewing Column "D":

1. Sew the first line marked in column "D" using a straight stitch.
2. Move to the third line but do not sew. Insert the quilt guide into the hole on the rear of the ankle shank. Set the guilt guide so that it is lined up with the first line sewn. Tightened the screw to secure the quilt guide.
3. Sew line three.
4. Move the fabric so that the quilt guide is lined up with line three. Sew a line parallel to the line just sewn. Continue sewing in this manner until column "D" has been completed.
5. Select stitch (Multiple Zig-Zag)
   MC 9000 -- #9
   MC 8000 -- #18
   MC 5700 -- #7
   MC 5000 -- #8
   MC 4000 -- #15
   MC 3500 -- #12
   MC 3000 -- #8
6. Adjust the stitch length to 2.0 and the stitch width to 4.5.
7. Sew on line two. Set the quilt guide so you can sew another line of this stitch on line four.
8. Continue placing rows of this stitch between the straight stitch lines, using the quilt guide to keep everything straight and even.

Finishing:

1. Use your original pattern pieces to cut out the garment. You may find that the pattern no longer matches the tracing you made. The Twin needle stitching changes the shape of the fabric slightly.
2. Remove the water soluble stabilizer. Tear off as much as you can remove easily. Wash the garment to remove the rest.
3. Follow your pattern instructions to construct the jacket.