Projects

Call Ajaire Swimwear with Coverstitch Tips

Created By:

Ajaire Parello from Call Ajaire

Skill Level: Intermediate

One of my favorite uses for the Janome CoverPro 1000CPX is for professional looking details on swimwear, so I'm excited to share my process and a few tips with you.  If you're new to your coverstitch machine or even sewing in general, never fear!  Swimwear is completely accessible and much easier to sew than you may have been led to believe, so let's get started.

Janome Supplies Required

Of course you'll need a swimsuit pattern and fabric, but for the interest of this post, we'll skip to the sewing parts. I like to switch out the needles to make sure they're new and won't cause any issues with the swimwear fabric. The recommended needles are the ELx705 and I've found that size 90/14 are best for stitching swimwear. You might think that the 82/12 would be better because the fabric is light-weight, but the stitching will be through some thick seams, so the 90/14 is a better option. I do use the light-weight fabric tension settings (the switch on the front of the machine pushed to the right) for swimwear and there's a tip later in this post which illustrates why. I also only use two needles (the two furthest to the right for this application), but if you prefer three that would work.

Fabric and Notions Required

I use a serger for all swimsuit seams, but it is also possible to use a stretch stitch on your regular sewing machine. For this post, I use a serger, but I want you to know that your regular machine can do the job as well. Following your pattern of choice (in these pictures I'm sewing suits for my 4 year old girl following this mashUp tutorial from my blog Call Ajaire), begin putting the suit together. 

Instructions

At all openings that will hug the body, (ie the leg openings) I use swimwear elastic to help the fabric maintain its elasticity. In the picture located in the supplies section, I am stitching elastic to the upper bodice of the swimsuit. Instead of measuring a piece of elastic, cutting it and pinning it in place, I simply serge the elastic onto the wrong side of the seam allowance, keeping an even tension on the elastic.

When I get to the end of the stitching, I serge off the edge of the elastic and trim the elastic to size. I find it easier to maintain a consistent tension on the elastic if I am not working with a smaller piece which is why I prefer to cut the elastic off the roll after stitching it on. One thing to remember is that the elastic isn't meant to be tight or squeezing the body, but to simply hug it so there's no need to pull the elastic much while stitching. The stretch should be in the FABRIC and the elastic will just be there as a helping hand to keep everything snug and in place once the fabric is wet or been worn for awhile.

Here is what the upper bodice looks like after stitching the elastic to the edge. (I was assembly line sewing a few suits for my girl so the fabric will change periodically in this post.) You'll notice that there aren't any puckers in the fabric which means the elastic has just the right amount of tension. Trim away the excess elastic from the ends.

Now we're getting to the fun part. Turn the elastic down to the wrong side and either pin or finger press it in place. Again, I don't bother with pins for this part as I find it's easier for me to control the tension in the elastic without having to start and stop for pin removal.

Insert the turned over seam right side up (the outside of the swimsuit) underneath the presser foot of the CoverPro.

Remember that with the coverstitch you need to start your stitching on the fabric and not off it like with some regular machines and sergers. Begin stitching along the edge, using the edge of the presser foot as a guide. Continue to maintain the tension on the elastic while making sure it is folded under right along the edge. Stitch all the way across.

Again, remember that you'll need to end your stitching on the fabric and not off the edge (though the picture above looks like it was off, I assure you it wasn't) and raise the needles to their highest position.

Lift the presser foot and using tweezers or some thin implement; pull the needle threads from under the presser foot above the fabric out toward you.

Snip the two needle threads.

Pull the fabric back behind the presser foot which will pull all three threads to the underside of the seam.

I prefer to make a small knot with the three threads on the wrong side of the fabric, just to ensure they won't be pulled out with wear and tear. Once knotted, I run the threads through a needle and hide a bit of a tail in the seam for extra precaution. All of the edges with elastic should be completed this same way - securing the elastic to the wrong side first (serging works best), turning the elastic over and coverstitching the elastic in place.

Occasionally, you'll reach a thicker section like a seam or where the straps are attached and I've found that the Seam Tightening System inherent in the CoverPro 1000CPX is perfect for this case. Stitch the regular part of the seam with the light-weight setting on the front of the machine (the picture of the camisole with the switch toward the right) and stitch to the right before getting to the thicker section.

Push the switch toward the left for the thicker section which will adjust the tension of the stitches. Stitch over the thick section and when you get back to the regular thickness, pause and push the switch back to the right. Continue stitching the rest of the seam per normal.

Another place I love to use the CoverPro is for the straps as I know it'll help keep things secure for all the wear and tear that will be put on a swimsuit.

Start by lining up the circle of strap fabric right side together with the swimsuit and serge elastic to the edge through the two layers of fabric. You'll see that the elastic is stitched to the wrong side of the strap fabric in this case, but it will be on the right side of the main swimsuit.

Turn the swimsuit right side out, pushing up the strap fabric over the elastic.

This it what it will look like from the inside. You'll be covering up that stitching with the strap fabric in the next step.

Now continue to fold the strap fabric over to the wrong side so it covers the elastic completely.

Again, this is what it will look like from the inside of the swimsuit. Don't worry about there being extra fabric as it will be trimmed off later.

Coverstitch from the right side of the swimsuit through the wrapped around strap fabric, sandwiching the elastic and main swimsuit seam. You can see in the picture above that I don't bother pinning this step either. I simply wrap the fabric around as a stitch.

When coverstitching a circular seam, I like to pause when the starting stitches make their way around to pull the needle threads through to the underside.

Knot those threads together, leaving a tail. I find it's easier to do this before stitching completely around the circle and potentially over those starting threads. After knotting, continue to stitch around the strap, using the method described earlier to pull the ending threads to the wrong side as well.

Thread the knotted threads through a needle and hide the tails in the seam.

Look at how nice that strap looks! Trim the excess strap fabric from the wrong side so it won't be seen once worn. Swimsuit fabric won't fray easily so trimming like this works well.

See how nice all of those seams look? I made a size larger for my girl since I'm hoping to get at least a year's worth of wear out of it and she's at an age where she's growing super fast!

As you can see, she loves her swimsuit and I hope you'll use some of these tips to dive into your own swimsuit sewing adventures.

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Reviews


Tako
Beautiful
Wednesday, November 23, 2016

cpindzola
Around the Table Dresden Placemats
Saturday, December 17, 2016

I like the concept, but the directions are "sloppy." Nowhere in the supply list does it mention the felt or the batting (how much?). Also, I would never use a high loft batting in a placemat, or a table runner, as I think that it would be too unstable for a glass. The next time I make these, I will cut out the batting (I use flannel) and spray baste it to the wrong side of the Dresden plate before I put the Dresden plate on the felt to cut out. I have not yet washed the finished placemat, and am hoping that the single layer of felt does not curl up, or become distorted after washing/drying.
Txmaid
Fun Great Gift!
Tuesday, February 21, 2017

MargieARK
Teatime Quilted Tablecloth
Friday, February 24, 2017

I made this today but your cutting directions need to be changed. You only need 4 of color 1 and color 3 4.5 squares for the triangles. Also the inner border, you only need 2 cuts as WOF is long enough to cut each in half to fit the sides.
MickelSews
Great Machine
Wednesday, August 30, 2017

I've had this machine for only a week now. I bought it used from a lady who makes her own clothes, but she no longer needed the machine. During the purchase, she noted that she is almost sad that it's better to give it away because of how well the machine performed. (I also bought it along side a computerized machine of another brand.} She demoed the machine for us, showing it worked and gave us everything (including the box it came in!) She took amazing care of this machine. I have used it a few times now, and the directions for threading were easy to follow (albeit my hands are quite large so the lower looper was a pain, but that is no fault to the machine or brand.) And I recommend this machine to anyone who wants to learn to serge and wants a machine that can grow with them. I will happily use this machine time and time again.
rvstan
S9 Review
Sunday, February 25, 2018

I love, love, love my S9! It's sews and embroiders beautifully and it's simplicity of use amazes me. I would recommend this machine for both a beginner and an experienced seamstress. If I would ask anything of Janome it would be to upgrade the programming to run a larger hoop size. I understand that it can't get much wider but there is most definitely room for it to go longer. That is the only limitation of this machine.
pjmnana
PJMNana
Monday, February 26, 2018

I purchased a Memorycraft 15000 a few years ago and it was the best purchase I ever made! This machine can do just about anything you would would ever want! I love the capability of using the Acuedit app to set up my embroidery pattern on my Ipad and then download it to the machine! I love how my embroidery looks upon completion and I love all the good lighting it has to light up your workspace. That way you don’t need to worry about where to set up your machine. It also has plenty of room to do machine embroidery on any size quilts! There are many decorative stitches from which to choose that are outstanding! It’s hard to choose which one to use! There are so many great features it is hard to decide what I love the most. If you want to buy only one machine to last a lifetime, I would recommend this one!
KLWash
S9 Review
Sunday, February 24, 2019

The S9 is amazing. I learned to sew by hand when I was just 5 and in my grandmothers way as she was quilting. I took seeing classes in high school until they would no longer let me sign up. The S9 makes me appreciate my current skills as well as motivate me to want to learn more. This machine is awesome.
SewSueMe2002
Horizon Memory Craft 15000
Thursday, November 19, 2020

My Janome Horizon Memory Craft 15000 is fantastic! I love, love, love this machine! When I came across the Eye for and Eye embroidery design today, I wanted to make it. However, the embroidery file is missing. Nothing downloads when I select the download button. Please help!
Jillfmischo
Treat Bag fun!
Monday, August 16, 2021

I made the Halloween treat bag for my new granddaughter and I’m sure it will last for years. No embroidery machine so I appliquéd the lettering. Need a little more skirt fabric for a better gathered look, and I used thin double-bias tape for the skirt hem, over edge stitch on skirt sides. I’m pleased with my results!
elenaz
Very helpful tutorial
Wednesday, October 25, 2023

I want to say thank you for teaching me this method of applique. I was able to do it with a small letters. This method is the best so far from all of those I've seen and tried.
plonkar
So useful
Thursday, November 30, 2023

I'd like to express my gratitude for teaching me this appliqué method. I successfully applied it with small letters, and, so far, it's the most effective among all the methods I've seen and tried.

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