Moonlight Serenade

Created By: Jane Spolar of Quilt Poetry
Skill Level: Advanced
Patterns Available +/-
Layout diagram for Moonlight Serenade quilt project.
Janome Supplies Required

-Memory Craft 11000 Special Edition
-Custom Crafted ZigZag Foot F
-1/4 Inch Seam Foot O
-Even Feed Foot
-Free Motion Quilting Foot

Fabric and Notions Required

(Fabric requirements for appliqué included with pattern) 

-2 1/3 yds. turquoise fabric (for border, small blocks and appliqué)
-1½ yds. black fabric (for appliqué blocks and border blocks)
-4 yds. black batik (for backing)
-5/8 yd. fabric (for binding)
-Batting to measure at least 67" x 75"
-Rotary cutting supplies
-Lightweight sew in interfacing, to stabilize the appliqué while stitching (1½ yds. should yield twelve 9" squares.)
-40 wt. decorative thread in turquoise and black (2 spools each.)
-A variety of decorative threads for the appliqué
-Embroidery needle size 80/12 or 90/14, depending upon the decorative thread used
-Temporary basting spray
-Duck billed appliqué scissor (for trimming interfacing from back of block)


Cutting Instructions:

(WOF means width of fabric)
(LOF means length of fabric)
Quilt will measure 63" x 71" prior to quilting, and will be trimmed to size after quilting.
Black appliqué background blocks:
Cut 3 - 13½" strips (WOF) From each strip, cut 3 - 13½" blocks to yield 12 total
(These blocks will be trimmed to 12½" x 12½" once the appliqué has been completely stitched.)

Black corner border blocks:
Cut 1- 12" strip (WOF) From this strip, cut 4 - 12" blocks
(The borders will be trimmed to 7" once the machine quilting has been completed. The extra width is needed for hooping.)

Turquoise fabricimportant – please cut in order stated, prior to cutting appliqué. Turquoise small blocks:
Cut 2 - 4½" strips (WOF). From one strip, cut 9 - 4½" blocks. From the second strip, cut 3 - 4½" blocks to yield 12 total

Turquoise border strips: Cut 2 - 12" strips (WOF). From these, cut 40½" border pieces
Cut 2 - 12" strips (LOF). From these, cut 48½" border pieces
(The borders will be trimmed to 6½" once the machine quilting has been completed. The extra width is needed for hooping.)

Cut turquoise fabric for appliqué from remaining large piece.
Follow instructions in pattern for appliqué.

Cut fabric into two 2 yard pieces. Trim off selvedge edges and sew together lengthwise for a backing which measures approximately 72" x 88".

Constructing the Quilt:

1. Fuse the appliqué as instructed in the Quilt Poetry pattern. Cut 12 - 9" squares of interfacing. Spray squares with temporary basting spray and center on the back of the appliqué blocks. This will stabilize the block while stitching around the appliqué. It can be trimmed off outside the appliqué with a duck billed scissor once the stitching has been completed.

Using the open toe foot, stitch around the appliqué. Use a variety of complimentary threads to enhance the project.

Hints and Tips about stitching the appliqué down:

I find it’s easiest to sew decorative stitches around appliqué if I set the speed control slider to about half speed. Always do these stitches in the needle down position so the needle stays safely in the fabric when you pause to pivot. Use the Open Toe Craft Foot, so you can see the edges of the shapes. It’s a good idea to practice on a little sample fabric with some shapes fused to it.

Experiment with a variety of stitches. Try varying width and length to achieve a look you like. Pay attention to the stitch pattern and learn the rhythm of the stitch. This will help you determine when and where to pivot.

Here are some stitches I enjoy using on appliqué:

-A narrow, slightly open zig zag. (Stitch #8) Try setting width 2.0 and length .5. Pivot on the outside of the appliqué shape.

-The triple stretch stitch. (Stitch #5) Try shortened to 2.2 or 2. Stitch about 1/16" inside the edge of the appliqué shape.

-The sculpture stitch. (Stitch #9)

-An appliqué stitch. (Stitch #18) Try setting width 3.0 and length .4.

-A patchwork stitch. (Stitch #38) Try setting width 3.0 and length 1.2.

-Another patchwork stitch. (Stitch #32) Same settings as the previous stitch. I like both of these stitched so the center line runs right along the edge of the appliqué.
2. When stitching down the appliqué is complete, trim interfacing on back of blocks around the outside of the appliqué using a duck billed scissor. Be very careful not to snip into the fabric.

3. Add embroidery to the appliqué design. Choose 2 x 2 embroidery design #4. Enlarge it to 102%. Stitch this on each flower center to line up about ½" from bottom of flower center. You may want to add some extra stabilizer under the embroidery motif.

4. Using a square ruler, trim the appliqué blocks to measure 12½" x 12½".

5. Sew together sets of three 4" blocks using the ¼ inch seam foot. Press seams in one direction.

6. Following the layout diagram, sew the appliqué blocks together with the sets of small blocks in rows. Press seams, use layout guide to help determine how to press seams when seamlines will meet. (Such as between the first and second row.) It is helpful to press these seams in an opposing manner.

7. Again follow the diagram and join the four rows.

8. Sew the shortest border strips to the top and bottom of the quilt. Press seams toward border.

9. Sew a 12" black square to each end of the longer border strips. Sew these borders to the sides of the quilt. Press seams towards border.

10. Layer the quilt. I use basting spray, but you may baste traditionally also.

11. Using a Walking Foot, “stitch in the ditch” between all the blocks, etc.

12. Using a Free Motion Foot, stitch around the outside of the appliqué and possibly some inside the appliqué motif. (You can also add quilting inside the appliqué motif once the quilting in the block background has been done.)

Quilting with the stippling designs:

Background quilting in appliqué blocks:

1. Begin by making a quarter quilting design for the background of the appliqué block. Choose Acufil design #4. On the design edit screen, resize to 84% and rotate 90 degrees. Choose Acufil design #2 and resize to 84%. Choose stippling part #16 and resize 96%. Choose stippling part #14. Duplicate it once. Rotate to fit the small spaces. The shape should quilt about 6" out from each corner of the block.

See drawing below for how to arrange the sections. Set them up in the corner of the grid and you can then use the plastic template lined up directly on the corner seamlines for placement of the quilting on the quilt.

2. Quilt each corner of the block with turquoise thread on top and black thread in the bobbin. Bring the bobbin thread up to the top and trim at the beginning of each segment.

(I found it helpful to reduce the auto tension 2 so none of the black thread shows on the top.)
See the dashed lines in the layout diagram to get an idea of how the motifs will lie on each corner of the appliqué block.

Quilting the small blocks:

I found it helpful to reduce the embroidery speed to the slowest setting for these blocks.

1. Choose stippling design #4, the leaf. Select it in the second mode with the stippling around the leaf. Reduce to 85% and center on the grid.

2. Using black thread, quilt this motif in the top small square in the first row. Also quilt it in the middle small squares in the second and third row, and in the bottom small square in the fourth row.

3. Next choose just the leaf, reduce to 85% and reverse it. Stitch the reversed leaf on the remaining small blocks in the second and third row. In the first and third row, stitch the reversed leaf in the middle small blocks.

4. Finally, choose just the leaf, reduce it 85% and stitch in the remaining small block in the first and fourth row.

(In the layout diagram, the double arrow indicates the leaf with stippling around it.. and the direction it faces. The single arrows indicate the leaf without stippling and the directions they face.)

Quilting the Border cornerstone blocks:
1. Choose stippling design #3 in the third mode with the stippling and the outline. Increase the size 120%. Line the edges up in the top corner of the grid, one square in from the edge.

2. When hooping, line the plastic template up on the block so the edge of the grid falls directly on the seamlines. Using turquoise thread, quilt out the corner blocks.

3. This quilting will be in the center of the corner blocks, about ½" from all sides. See dashed lines in diagram to show how the motif will look centered in the block after trimming borders at the end of the project..

Quilting the motifs in the borders:
1. Choose stippling design #12 without the stippling and border. Increase in size 120% and rotate 45 degrees. Line the edges of the motif in the top corner of the grid, one square in from the edge. Choose stippling design #17 and put it on the top right corner of the 12 motif. Duplicate it and flip horizontally – place this piece on the top left corner of the motif. Again duplicate the first #17 piece, flip it vertically and put it on the bottom right corner of the motif. Duplicate that, flip horizontally and put it on the bottom left corner of the motif.

2. Using the plastic template, line the corner of the grid with the inner border seam and the cornerstone seam. Quilt the motif with black thread. You can keep turning the quilt so the template is always lined up directly on the seams.

3. For the second motif in each border, place a line about 1/8" away from the edge of the first motif. Use that line, and the inner seamline to line up the template on the quilt.

(I found that I liked to stop the machine a stitch or two before it finishes each of the corner stippling design, then pull the threads to the top so I could thread them to the underside, tie and bury them in the batting.)

4. See the layout diagram to get an idea of where to line up the motif on the quilt.

Quilting the remainder (middle areas) of each border:

1. Choose Acufil design #3. Enlarge 108%. Duplicate and flip one piece vertically. Line the two shapes up to the edge of the top and bottom of the grid, and one square in from the edge of the grid on the left.

2. Use the plastic template to line the hoop up, with the edge of the template on the seam line.

3. In the top and bottom border, stitch two of these 8" sections (with turquoise thread) to fill the middle space. In the side borders, stitch three of the sections to fill the space. I used turquoise thread in the bobbin for these sections too, since I was stitching on turquoise fabric – I didn’t want any chance for black bobbin thread coming through.

4. See the layout diagram to get an idea of where to line up the motif on the quilt.

5. If desired fill in some of the remaining space with turquoise thread and free motion quilting, but essentially the quilting is done at this point!!

6. Run a basting stitch 6½" from the inside of the quilt in the borders. Ensure the quilt is straight and trim the borders to 6¾" if using ¼" binding or to 7" if using ½" binding.

7. Bind the quilt.

© 2008. Jane Spolar

Everyone is Talking about Moonlight Serenade

Wednesday, November 23, 2016

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Saturday, December 17, 2016

I like the concept, but the directions are "sloppy." Nowhere in the supply list does it mention the felt or the batting (how much?). Also, I would never use a high loft batting in a placemat, or a table runner, as I think that it would be too unstable for a glass. The next time I make these, I will cut out the batting (I use flannel) and spray baste it to the wrong side of the Dresden plate before I put the Dresden plate on the felt to cut out. I have not yet washed the finished placemat, and am hoping that the single layer of felt does not curl up, or become distorted after washing/drying.
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Tuesday, February 21, 2017

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Friday, February 24, 2017

I made this today but your cutting directions need to be changed. You only need 4 of color 1 and color 3 4.5 squares for the triangles. Also the inner border, you only need 2 cuts as WOF is long enough to cut each in half to fit the sides.
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Wednesday, August 30, 2017

I've had this machine for only a week now. I bought it used from a lady who makes her own clothes, but she no longer needed the machine. During the purchase, she noted that she is almost sad that it's better to give it away because of how well the machine performed. (I also bought it along side a computerized machine of another brand.} She demoed the machine for us, showing it worked and gave us everything (including the box it came in!) She took amazing care of this machine. I have used it a few times now, and the directions for threading were easy to follow (albeit my hands are quite large so the lower looper was a pain, but that is no fault to the machine or brand.) And I recommend this machine to anyone who wants to learn to serge and wants a machine that can grow with them. I will happily use this machine time and time again.
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Sunday, February 25, 2018

I love, love, love my S9! It's sews and embroiders beautifully and it's simplicity of use amazes me. I would recommend this machine for both a beginner and an experienced seamstress. If I would ask anything of Janome it would be to upgrade the programming to run a larger hoop size. I understand that it can't get much wider but there is most definitely room for it to go longer. That is the only limitation of this machine.
Monday, February 26, 2018

I purchased a Memorycraft 15000 a few years ago and it was the best purchase I ever made! This machine can do just about anything you would would ever want! I love the capability of using the Acuedit app to set up my embroidery pattern on my Ipad and then download it to the machine! I love how my embroidery looks upon completion and I love all the good lighting it has to light up your workspace. That way you don’t need to worry about where to set up your machine. It also has plenty of room to do machine embroidery on any size quilts! There are many decorative stitches from which to choose that are outstanding! It’s hard to choose which one to use! There are so many great features it is hard to decide what I love the most. If you want to buy only one machine to last a lifetime, I would recommend this one!

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