Projects

Tucked & Tailored Sheet Set

Created By: Michele Mishler
Skill Level: Advanced

Tucked & Tailored Sheet Set
Sewn on the New Horizon MC8900
Project Designed by Michele Mishler
 

Janome Supplies Required
  • 1/4" foot
  • Buttonhole foot
  • AccuFeed Flex Foot, wide
Fabric and Notions Required
  • 2 flat sheets in desired size and colour
  • 1 fitted sheet in desired size and colour
  • 1 3/4 yd coordinating print fabric
  • 1/2 yd contrasting tone on tone fabric
  • All purpose thread to match sheets
  • Six 5/8" buttons
  • 3/4 yd Warm & Natural low loft batting, 90" wide
  • Seam ripper
  • Rotary cutter & cutting board
  • Ruler
  • Marking pen
Instructions

Instructions:

Perfect coordinates and custom design! A flat sheet is the source of the extra fabric used to create the custom top sheet, coordinating pillow cases and matching pillow shams.

Remove the hems and trim from one of the flat sheets. Spritz with water and press to remove the crease marks.

From the sheet fabric, cut:Two 10 1/2" strips from the width of fabric (Top sheet and pillowcases)
Four 6" strips from the width of the fabric (Pillow shams, tucked squares)
Two 25" x 33" rectangles (Pillow shams, lining)
Four 18" x 25" (Pillow shams, back)
Four 2 3/4" strips from the width of the fabric.

Cut segments:
Four @ 2 3/4" x 25" (Pillow sham, outer border)
Four @ 2 3/4" x 33" (Pillow sham, outer border)
From coordinating print fabric, cut:
Two 25" x 33" rectangles (Pillowcases)

From contrast fabric, cut:
Five 1 1/2" strips from the width of the fabric (Top sheet and pillowcases)
Six 1" strips from the width of the fabric (Pillow shams)
From low loft batting, cut
Two 25" x 33" rectangles
 

Top Sheet Instructions:

• On the remaining flat sheet, cut away the upper hem and trim.
• Join three of the contrast fabric strips to create a continuous length the width of the top sheet plus 1".
• Fold in 1/2" at each end of the strip and press. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, and press.
• Pin the folded contrast trim to the upper edge of the first top sheep. Match the ends of the contrast strip so they are even with the side seams of the sheet.
• Fold the 10 1/2" strip of sheet fabric lengthwise with the fold 6" from one long edge. Press.
• Fold the 6" side in half with the edge touching the crease. Press. The strip is now divided into three sections, 4 1/2", 3" and 3". Fold each 3" section in half and press. The strip is now divided into five sections, 4 1/2", 1 1/2", 1 1/2", 1 1/2" and 1 1/2".
• Fold the strip at the first pressed crease (the crease that is 1 1/2" from the edge).
• Using the 1/4" foot, stitch along the folded edge to create the first tuck.
• Fold the strip at the second crease and stitch, using the 1/4' foot. Repeat for the third crease.
• Fold the strip along the last crease. Match the edges of the strip and press, with the tucks facing away from the edges, toward the final fold.
• On the 4 1/2" side, fold under the edge 1/2" and press. Cut the strip to match the width of the sheet, plus 1".
• Change to the Accufeed Flex foot. This is the perfect foot for long seams.
• Pin the tucked strip to top sheet with right sides together, with an extra 1/2" at each end. The contrast trim will be sandwiched between the layers. Sew with a 1/2" seam.
• Fold the ends in half so that the tucked strip is right sides together. Stitch the ends. Turn right sides out, and press the ends. Press the seam toward the tucked strip and the contrast trim toward the sheet. Press the folded edge over the line of stitching and pin in place. Edge stitch from the right side, close to the contrast trim.
 

Bottom Sheet Instructions: No adjustments were made to the bottom sheet.

• Cut two of the contrast fabric strips to 41". Join the ends with a 1/2" seam to make a ring.
• Fold the strip in half lengthwise, and press.
• Fold the 10" strip of sheet fabric lengthwise with the fold 6" from one edge. Press.
• Fold the 6" side in half with the edge touching the crease. Press. The strip is now divided into three sections, 4 1/2", 3" and 3". Fold each 3" section in half and press. The strip is now divided into five sections, 4 1/2", 1 1/2", 1 1/2", 1 1/2" and 1 1/2".
• Fold the strip at the first pressed crease (the crease that is 1 1/2" from the edge).
• Using the 1/4" foot, stitch along the folded edge to create the first tuck.
• Fold the strip at the second crease and stitch, using the 1/4' foot. Repeat for the third crease.
• Fold the strip along the last crease. Match the edges of the strip and press, with the tucks facing away from the edges, toward the final fold.
• On the 4 1/2" side, fold under the edge 1/2" and press.
• Cut the tucked strip into two 41" sections. Sew the ends together for each section, creating a ring.
• Fold the coordinating print fabric in half with the 28" sides matching. Sew the sides with a 1/2" seam. Press the seam open. Sew across one end with a 1/2" seam. Turn right sides out and press. Repeat for the second pillowcase.
(Hint: The seam can also be sewn as a French seam for a more professional finish. To make a French seam, match the edges of the fabric WRONG sides together, and sew with a scant 1/4" seam. Scant 1/4"? Adjust the position of the needle to 5.0. Press the seam open, and turn wrong sides out. Stitch the seam a second time using a 1/4" seam. This will encase the raw edges, and create a beautiful, durable seam.)
• Add the contrasting trim to the open end of the pillowcase, matching the seams and edges. Pin.
• Add the tucked strip, with right sides together. Match edges and seams. Pin. The contrast trim should be sandwiched between the layers.
• Sew the tucked strip to the pillowcase with a 1/2" seam. Press the seam allowance toward the tucked strip, and the contrast trim toward the pillowcase.
• Press the folded edge of the strip to the inside of the pillowcase so that the fold covers the line of stitching. Pin. Edge stitch from the right side, close to the contrast trim. Repeat for the second pillowcase.
 

Pillow Sham Instructions:

• Fold each of the 6" strips in half lengthwise. Press.
• Fold the edges of each strip to match the center crease. Press.
• Using the 1/4" foot, stitch along each crease to form three tucks. Press the tucks to one side. Repeat for each strip. The completed strips should measure approximately 4 1/2" wide.
• Cut each strip into 4 1/2" segments. You will need 70 squares for two pillow shams.
• Arrange the tucked squares into 5 rows with 7 squares across. Place each square so that the tucks alternate, the first with tucks pointing down, the second with the tucks pointing to the right, the third with the tucks pointing down, the fourth with the tucks pointing to the right, etc. The desired look is a checkerboard effect.
• With a 1/4" foot, sew the squares together into rows. Sew the rows into a panel, with seams matching. Make a matching panel for the second pillow sham.
• Fold the 1" strips of contrast fabric in half lengthwise and press. Sew the contrast trim to each short end of the checkerboard panel. Trim to match the edges. Sew the remaining trim to the long edges of the checkerboard panel. Trim to match. Repeat for the second panel.
• Match the shorter borders to each end of the panel, and sew with a 1/4" seam. Press the seam allowance toward the border, and the trim toward the panel. Repeat for the second panel.
• Match the longer border strips to the remaining sides of the panel, and sew with a 1/4' seam. Press the seam toward the border, and the trim toward the panel. Repeat for the second panel. This completes the pillow sham tops.
• The four 18" x 25" panels are for the back of the pillow shams. On each panel, fold and press a 1" double hem along one of the 25" sides. On two of the panels, make three buttonholes in the double hem, spaced 5" apart.
• Overlap a plain panel with a buttonhole panel with right sides facing up. The hem with buttonholes will be directly on top of the double hem of the second panel. Baste across the hem ends within the 1/4" seam allowance.
• Layer the pillow sham lining, the batting and the pillow sham top, matching edges. Pin along the outer edge. Place the pillow sham back over the pillow sham top with right sides together, matching edges. Pin in place.
• With the Accufeed Flex foot, sew through all layers with a 1/2" seam. Trim away excess batting and trim corners. Turn right sides out through the back opening and press.
• On the right side of the pillow sham, pin or baste the layers together between the checkerboard squares and the borders. Stitch in the ditch between the borders and the checkerboards. Repeat for the second pillow sham.
• To complete the pillow shams, mark the position for the buttons under the buttonholes. Sew a 5/8" button at each mark.
 

Everyone is Talking about Tucked & Tailored Sheet Set
Reviews


Tako
Beautiful
Wednesday, November 23, 2016

cpindzola
Around the Table Dresden Placemats
Saturday, December 17, 2016

I like the concept, but the directions are "sloppy." Nowhere in the supply list does it mention the felt or the batting (how much?). Also, I would never use a high loft batting in a placemat, or a table runner, as I think that it would be too unstable for a glass. The next time I make these, I will cut out the batting (I use flannel) and spray baste it to the wrong side of the Dresden plate before I put the Dresden plate on the felt to cut out. I have not yet washed the finished placemat, and am hoping that the single layer of felt does not curl up, or become distorted after washing/drying.
Txmaid
Fun Great Gift!
Tuesday, February 21, 2017

MargieARK
Teatime Quilted Tablecloth
Friday, February 24, 2017

I made this today but your cutting directions need to be changed. You only need 4 of color 1 and color 3 4.5 squares for the triangles. Also the inner border, you only need 2 cuts as WOF is long enough to cut each in half to fit the sides.
MickelSews
Great Machine
Wednesday, August 30, 2017

I've had this machine for only a week now. I bought it used from a lady who makes her own clothes, but she no longer needed the machine. During the purchase, she noted that she is almost sad that it's better to give it away because of how well the machine performed. (I also bought it along side a computerized machine of another brand.} She demoed the machine for us, showing it worked and gave us everything (including the box it came in!) She took amazing care of this machine. I have used it a few times now, and the directions for threading were easy to follow (albeit my hands are quite large so the lower looper was a pain, but that is no fault to the machine or brand.) And I recommend this machine to anyone who wants to learn to serge and wants a machine that can grow with them. I will happily use this machine time and time again.
rvstan
S9 Review
Sunday, February 25, 2018

I love, love, love my S9! It's sews and embroiders beautifully and it's simplicity of use amazes me. I would recommend this machine for both a beginner and an experienced seamstress. If I would ask anything of Janome it would be to upgrade the programming to run a larger hoop size. I understand that it can't get much wider but there is most definitely room for it to go longer. That is the only limitation of this machine.
pjmnana
PJMNana
Monday, February 26, 2018

I purchased a Memorycraft 15000 a few years ago and it was the best purchase I ever made! This machine can do just about anything you would would ever want! I love the capability of using the Acuedit app to set up my embroidery pattern on my Ipad and then download it to the machine! I love how my embroidery looks upon completion and I love all the good lighting it has to light up your workspace. That way you don’t need to worry about where to set up your machine. It also has plenty of room to do machine embroidery on any size quilts! There are many decorative stitches from which to choose that are outstanding! It’s hard to choose which one to use! There are so many great features it is hard to decide what I love the most. If you want to buy only one machine to last a lifetime, I would recommend this one!

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