By Janome Maker: Leila Makes
It’s no secret that sewing is my favorite pastime. While clothes take up the bulk of my sewing projects, accessories certainly deserve their own spotlight. For me, it’s hard to get motivated for them at first.. but once they’re done, I use them constantly. In this post, I’ll walk you through how I designed and sewed a custom sun shade cover for my car’s windshield – from start to finish!
After some online research, scrolling through internet blogs and videos, I found that many DIYers tend to reach for a roll of Reflectix (aluminum foil-covered bubble wrap). But I wanted to take it a step further, with more structure and better insulation. I chose an aluminum foil-covered foam as the core material, sandwiched between Ottertex fabric (polyester water-repellent canvas with a PVC-coating side). I opted for synthetic fabric to avoid any potential shrinkage from daily exposure to heat and condensation. My goal was to make a shade that blocked sunlight and helped insulate the car. I considered adding ¼” fiberglass rods (repurposed garden poles) for extra support, but ultimately opted not to include them, as the middle layer foam alone offered enough rigidity in my opinion.
Note: I made this sun shade for a cargo van that I’m converting into a camper, so the windshield is larger than a typical car’s windshield.
Supplies Needed:
- Paper & Tape (optional)
- For tracing the outline of the windshield
- Measuring Tape
- I used a small metal one for precision
- Sewing Machine
- I used the Janome HD9, which handles heavier fabrics well
- Outer & Inner Fabric
- About 3–4 yards of medium- to heavy-weight fabric, preferably something durable and weather-resistant
- I used 4 yards of Ottertex Waterproof Canvas (in silver and black, 2 yards of each color)
- 100% polyester canvas with a PVC backing, 59-60” wide
- Note: I did end up with some leftover fabric and plan to make side window covers with it later
- Aluminum-Coated Foam
- I used “SmartShield” insulation roll to serve as the inner insulating layer
- Note: the reflective surface of this foam is not exposed to the sun, so it’s not being used to reflect heat. If I were to redo it, I might leave one side of the shade uncovered by fabric to better utilize the foam’s reflective properties
- Bias Binding
- Should be durable, but thinner than the main fabric.
- I used ~200″ (~5.5 yards) x 1.5” width of cotton twill bias binding
- Elastic for Storage
- I used 2 pieces of 1” wide elastic, each ~17” long
- To hold the shade rolled up when not in use
- 3/32” – ¼” fiberglass rods (optional)
- Quantity and length dependent on shade size and number of channels sewn in place
Steps:
1. Measure Your Windshield
- Most commercial sun shades are slightly larger than the actual window, to block out more light by folding slightly around the edges
- I aimed for an excess of½”-¾” on all sides to:
- Account for shifting during quilting
- Leave a finished overlap of about ⅜”-½” around the window for a snug fit
2. Create Your Template & Cut Layers
- Use your measurements to create a template (paper + tape can help with shaping)
- Cut out the following layers:
- Outer fabric
- Aluminum foam core
- Inner fabric
- 1.5” Bias binding (length based on the full perimeter)
- 2x Elastic loops (length based on the folded shade width)
- Be sure to mark the top and bottom edges!
3. Baste The Layers Together
- If you’re using PVC-coated or water-repellent fabric, spray basting probably won’t work.. it didn’t for me
- I tried both basting spray and a general adhesive spray, but nothing stuck well between the aluminum-coated foam and PVC-coated fabric (I had a feeling, but it was worth experimenting to double check!)
- Instead, I safety pin basted the shade layers together. It was slow and a little awkward to baste due to the size, but totally manageable with a large flat working surface (I used my floor)
4. Quilt the Shade
- I stitched double topstitch lines, spaced ~½” apart, and sewed these lines ~6.5” apart vertically across the shade
- Note: Sewing through multiple layers can be tricky, so be sure to set yourself for success and use a heavy duty machine (like the HD9) to sew through bulky layers smoothly, and use a heavy duty needle equipped for sewing through thick fabrics.
- My original plan was to insert ¼” fiberglass rods into these topstitched channels for added structure and rigidity, but I ended up not including them
- Still, the topstitching adds useful vertical structure to the shade
- Note: This is a great time to check the fit of the shade against your windshield and trim or adjust if needed
5. Baste the Perimeter
- Sew a ¼” seam allowance around the entire outer edge of the shade, to secure all layers together before binding
- Note: I used the standard foot provided with my HD9 machine and it is roughly ¼” on either side of the foot. So, I used the foot as a visual guide to achieve a ¼” seam allowance and it worked out perfectly.
6. Attach Bias Binding
- Attach the bias binding around the perimeter of the shade with a scant ⅜” seam allowance
- During this step, I also:
- Added a sewing label to mark the top edge
- Inserted two elastic loops on one side, to use for storage when the shade is rolled up
- Because the foam adds some bulk, I trimmed the edges after attaching one side of the binding for ease
- Then I topstitched the other side of the binding in place on the other side to secure it in place
I hope you enjoyed this little sewalong to upgrade your car accessories using your sewing machine! Throughout this project, I had to keep reminding myself how useful this shade would be once it was finished – and I’m happy to say, it was totally worth it! Oftentimes, it feels like accessory sewing can be overlooked in the sewing world, but in my experience, I’ve never made an accessory that I didn’t end up using constantly. This windshield shade is no exception – it is practical, satisfying, and uniquely mine.
Addendum: After one week in the summer sun, I noticed that the heat had caused the foam in the shade cover to soften and sag slightly. To prevent this sagging over time, I inserted seven 3/32” diameter fiberglass rods (sourced from a kite-making supplies store) through the topstitched channels. This reinforcement has worked well and may be especially useful for extra-large windshield shade covers, such as those used on cargo vans (my project). For regular or standard-sized windshields, this extra step might not be necessary.