Hello there fellow Sewists! I’d love to share with you my very favorite neckline finish technique that I use the most with my woven tops, tunics and tees.
I do not care for facings that need to be interfaced and edge finished! That is taking time from me wearing that beautiful finished garment. The bias will begin on the shoulder as it is more professional looking than having it in the center back.
When you are planning the layout process for your new top, keep in mind that you will need a bias strip for the neckline finish that will measure 1 inch wide by approximately 30 inches long depending on the total circumference of your neckline. I like to leave it a bit longer if possible BUT, you can always piece it so don’t fret.
Get your Janome machine set up with thread, bobbin and the usual supplies. Let’s go! My favorite Tee pattern is by Grainline Studios, The Scout Tee. It has no bust darts and having had a bilateral mastectomy, it fits me the best with no adjustments, like removing the bust darts. It is an easy pattern to add some room around the waist/hip area as well.
Instructions
-
I sew the front of the tee to the back at the shoulders. Press towards the back after serging so it is nice and flat. Put aside for a moment.
-
Prepare the bias for your neckline by cutting a strip 1 inch wide by the total circumference of your neck edge. I make a size 14 tee and I cut 28 inches long by 1 inch. Take that strip to the ironing board and press one of the long edges, ¼ of an inch towards the wrong side.
-
Fold one short edge of the bias on a 45 degree angle as shown in photo 1.
Apply the raw, unpressed edge of the bias strip to the WRONG side of your neckline placing the bias as pictured in the photo above.
Notice where the purple pin on the left is to show you where the fold on the bias needs to be placed. This will ensure a nice finish, ending at the shoulder seam. Stitch the bias to the neckline at ¼ seam allowance, stretching the bias slightly as you go. When you get to the end, overlap the ending of the bias by ⅛ of an inch. Trim off the excess and grade where the 2 ends meet at the shoulder to reduce bulk.
-
With the wrong side of the garment facing up, press the seam allowance and bias towards the center of the neck of the garment.
-
Understitching to some sewists is UNnecessary but here, it keeps everything nice and flat. Pull that bias out with the seam towards the center of the neckline and stitch very close to the inside edge as in the photo below.
-
Now with the right side of the garment up, let’s fold the already pressed edge of the bias over our raw edge just to where it will cover the previous stitching when we first applied it. How neat this will look!
-
I am not a fan of pinning but I must URGE you to do this for accuracy. (I am not a fan of the seam ripper either!) Pin the entire edge of that beautiful bias covering your neckline as in the photo below.
-
Begin sewing at the shoulder where your bias began at the folded edge. Stitch slowly all the way around. Backstitch at the end.
Admire your new,and neat neckline! Photo 7. I have done this technique over and over and love it so. Please give it a try!
