Created by: Maker, Duy Truong
(Project Level: Moderate and for everyone!)
Hi everyone, Duy here, aka CafeDeDuy!
Today we’ll be making a medieval conical hennin hat, specifically with a Medievalism intent – basically an imaginative reconstruction of how we view the Middle Ages versus what it actually looked like. There is no right or wrong way to make a conical hennin, because it won’t be historically accurate or in any way real. So from now on, we’ll call it a medieval princess hat.
This project involves a heavy duty machine because it involves sewing through thick layers including interface, and any possible trimming you’ll be using. I’ll be using my Janome HD9BE that I know can handle all the layers without breaking the needle.
This project is also an open canvas and you can approach it any way that you want to! This is just how I did mine and fully up for reinterpretation.
WHAT YOU NEED:
- Janome Heavy Duty Machine
- Thick Interface (if you do not have interface, you can add multiple layers of fabric for stiffness)
- Fabrics (including the lining and veil)
- Horsehair braid
- Decorative bits such as trims and crystals
PART ONE: Making your canvas.
Patterning! First you need to figure out the shape for the cone – which is easily accessible online. The best way to draft this is on craft foam so you can see how the 3D shape holds up versus muslin which can flop. Remember to consider the seam allowance.
Next use the foam as the pattern to trace on and cut the interfacing with. I used the foam pattern to trace onto the wrong side of the fabric as well. Cut out the traced fabric, but not directly on the traced line, give yourself space. Cut out the lining fabric too
Stitch the fabrics together with the right side facing down onto the lining, we will flip it inside out later. When sewing on the traced line, at the minimum, stitch the bottom edge of the hat. You can stitch one side too. Before you flip it inside out, cut slits onto the bottom curve for a smooth edge later. There’s different ways to do this, it is easier for me to cut slits.
Once inside out, insert your interface and fit it well between your fabrics layers. I recommend pinning and sew down your edges, including the raw edge of the opening side. This would ensure that your canvas is flat and set in place. Don’t worry about the exposed side being perfectly closed and hemmed as we have to sew both side edges together later.
And there is your canvas!
PART TWO: Decorating!
This is the fun part: decorating! There’s no right or wrong way to decorate your princess hat. You can use ribbons, trims, flowers and so on. But consider that you need to be able to machine sew your hat together later and flip it inside out again.
I chose to do a lattice-like pattern with my gimp trim. This trim is also thick, so the heavy duty machine can handle it. If you are using any other machine, remember the thick interface your princess hat is made of before sewing it.
After decorating and stitching down your design, it’s time to turn this into a full cone. Align your side edges together and machine stitch down the entire side. Although we are using a heavy duty machine, sew slowly to avoid any damages to the machine as this is the most layers of the project. Cut off any excess fabric, especially in the pointy top to make the next process easier.
Flip your hat inside out so the right fabric would be facing out. This was extremely difficult for me because of the interface but hang in there.
PART THREE: Final decorations and Functionality
Before the veil portion, do your final decorations that could not be done with a machine. For me, it is hand stitching the crystal trims.
Note: you don’t always have to sew on any of your decorative bits. If glue is better for you, go for the glue – this is for fun.
For the veil, there’s many different ways to have your veil hang off your princess hat. Use the internet for different references, whether you want to go the historical route or a fantasy one. I went for the medievalism princess look with a slightly different approach with a lace that I had dyed years back,
With hand stitching, I stitched my veil with two points going up the back seam. For the cone tip, I draped the veil over the front for that .5% historical influence.
For functionality, you can explore different options on how the con will stay on top of your head. If the cone is big enough to stay, you’re all set. There’s also the options of attaching ribbons on the sides to tie around your chin or combs.
I went for the horsehair braid so it would blend in with my hair as I pin it. Those with performing backgrounds will know exactly that this is. Cut out your desired length of horsehair braid and hem the edges with your machine. Pin it in place and stitch it on!
And voila! You have your medieval princess hat!
