By Meredith Daniel
Supplies:
- 3/4 yard main fabric
- 1/2 yard lining fabric
- 1/4 yard quilting cotton or lawn for ruffle
- 1/2 yard interfacing
- Pins and/or clips
- Rotary cutter
- Ruler
- Coordinating thread
Instructions
Cut the following:
- 2 Body pieces from exterior fabric
- 2 Top pieces from exterior fabric
- 2 20.5×6” pieces from exterior and interfacing fabric for straps
- 2 Body pieces from lining fabric (be sure to fold down top of pattern piece)
- 70×3” for ruffle (join 3” strips on bias to get the approximate length)
Please note that it is important to use polyester thread for this project. Cotton thread will break when gathering, and is not appropriate for bag making.
Begin by transferring markings from the main bag piece to the wrong sides of the exterior and lining pieces. Set aside.
Fuse interfacing to strap fabric following the manufacturer’s instructions. Fold in half lengthwise, then open, and fold each raw edge to the center crease and refold then press to prepare straps.
Using a straight stitch (the triple straight stitch is perfect here) with a length of 3.00 and a seam allowance of 1/8”, stitch along the long folded edge of the straps to secure, and then down the other long edge. Your straps are now prepped and can be set aside.
Using the dart markings on your main and lining bag Body pieces, fold in half right sides together matching up the markings. Note: Using a pin to penetrate along the markings is the perfect way to keep that triangular dart still for stitching. Using a straight stitch, and beginning at the raw edge of the dart, sew directly on the marked line to the point. Backstitch or leave thread tails to secure with knot. Repeat for all four bag Body pieces (main and lining). I pressed the main pieces’s darts upward, and the lining ones downward. I do that to reduce bulk, but you can press however you prefer.
Next, finish prepping the bag lining by sewing the Top piece (which is cut from the main fabric) to the top of the lining piece. Sew using a 1/4” seam allowance, then press upward toward the main fabric, and finish with a 1/8” top stitch. Set aside.
Now we will create the ruffle. If you have not already joined your 3” strips to create about 70” strip, go ahead and do that now. It’s best to join these on the bias.
Once you have the proper length, fold either end of the fabric wrong sides together, and sew a line 1/4” from the short raw edges.
Flip right side out, and press the whole strip in half lengthwise. Press well, and you will be ready to gather your ruffle. Place a pin halfway down your ruffle for centering on the bag in the next step.
If you have Janome’s gathering foot or ruffle foot, now is the perfect time to use it! If not, you can still gather, and I will explain just how to do that below.
Set your machine to sew a long stitch length (about 3.5), and putting the needle down then up, catch the bobbin thread and pull it out about 5” so you’ll have thread tails to pull once its time to gather. We are going to be doing two passes of these long stitches, but we will start and stop at the needles- don’t remove them. When you start and stop, DO NOT use the scissor function of the machine. You will raise the presser foot, cut a long thread tail, and then restart with a long thread tail.
For the first pass, stitch a scant 1/4” away from the raw edge of the strip beginning at one needle. When you reach the second, stop, raise the needle bar and foot and pull the fabric away so the thread tail is at least 5” long. Cut the thread and making sure you are starting again with at least 5” of thread tail, begin sewing just on the other side of the needle. Repeat sewing until you reach the beginning point and again cut a long thread tail. This is the first pass. For the second pass, repeat steps for the first pass of gathering stitches, but sew 1/2” away from the raw edge.
Now we will attach the ruffle to one of the main Body exterior pieces. First mark 3/8” from the top on either side of the bag. This will be where our ruffle begins and ends. Next, match the center of the ruffle with the center of the bag (raw edges together), and pin in place. Pin the beginning and end of the ruffle to the marked line 3/8” below the top of the bag Body.
Work one side of the bag at a time and gently pull the two top threads at the same time, carefully shifting gathers with your other hand as you go. Eventually, your gathered piece will be the same size as the half you are working on- when this happens, wrap the thread ends around the needle a couple times to keep them secure and adjust gathers evenly. I prefer to use pins to secure gathers.
Repeat with the other half of the bag Body.
Once you are happy with your gathers, you can sew them down using a normal stitch length and a 1/4” seam allowance.
Remove the longer gathering stitches by pulling them out so they are not visible. Do not remove the stitches you used to secure it to the pillow piece.
Grab your handles, and keeping the folded part of the handles on the inside, pin or clip to the top of each of the main Body pieces. Secure with a straight stitch with 1/4” seam allowance. I like using the triple stitch for this part as well because straps need security. If you don’t have a triple stitch function on your machine, just make a few passes to secure.
Next, place your other main Body piece right sides together on top of the piece you just attached the ruffle to- I find that I prefer clips for holding these together. Stitch in place using a 3/8” seam allowance.
For the lining pieces, you are going to sew them together then same way, except leave an opening at the bottom of the lining Body pieces for turning. 5-6” is a good amount. Press the seam allowance for that bottom portion to make the final stitching easier.
Almost done! To attach the main and lining portions, flip your lining right side out, and slip it inside the main bag. As you clip or pin together along the top, be sure to fold down the ruffle so its out of way and will not get caught in the stitching, and make sure the handles are tucked between the layers as well. Using a scant 3/8” stitch (not a full 3/8!), stitch all the way around the top of the bag.
Using the opening in the bottom of the lining, pull the bag right side out, then stitch the opening closed by hand or with a 1/8” seam allowance.
Ta-dah! You have done it! You have a fabulous new tote for gifting or for you to carry in this gorgeous, warm season!
