As a garment sewist, it seems like a thing we do. We plan, but make our outfits the night before we need them. Making garments for others, well that’s different! lol! We prep for months or weeks before – what pattern will I choose, will I draft a pattern, what fabric is in my stash, should I buy fabric, etc.? Then life sets in, and before you know it, it’s time to go.
I decided to make a jumpsuit out of a very silky and drapey fabric. The fabric was very fussy and required French seams. Since the fabric was so delicate, I used Mano (my Memory Craft 15000 – this machine can do no wrong). I also used my Airthread 2000D to serge the bodice. It was after that I realized this fabric required extra care and French seams going forward.
Instructions
1. Matching notches and markings, stitch the pocket to pants/skirt – front/back with Wrong sides together with 1/4″ seam allowance. Trim seam allowance to 1/8″. Flip the pocket so the Right sides are together and press.

2. Clip below pocket 1/4″ deep (clip above pocket if not in waistband construction). Stitch from clip to clip at 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seam toward the pocket.
3. Matching sides and notches, place pant/skirt front/back together with Wrong Sides together and stitch at 1/4″ seam allowance. Stitch side seam and around the pocket bag. Trim seams and press. (If you are making pants, stitch the crotch seam before this step!)

4. Turn the garment Wrong side out and press. Stitch final seams at 3/8″. Stitch side seams to markings (for your hand) and backstitch. Continue to the bottom of the garment as well as around the pocket bag. Don’t forget to press your seams! Turn to the Right side and your pocket installation is finished!

During my french seam process, I used my Cloth Guide for accurate and precise seams! This is so critical when french seaming. The guide is an included accessory with the Horizon 15000 and it’s also available for use with other Janome machines. I love it! Also, don’t forget to use your clapper during the french seam process to add that crisp finishing touch!
To find out more about Carol Crocker-Ware and see what she’s up to these days, follow her on her social media pages by following the link below.
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