Hi everyone, Duy here, aka CafeDeDuy!
For this spring project, we’re going simple and easy; capes.
But instead of common fabrics such as cotton or satin, we’ll be using upholstery fabric because it drapes better for the fantasy vibe we want. Because it is upholstery fabric, the best machine to use it with is the Janome HD9BE (Heavy Duty machine).
NOTE:
I prefer to make my capes full circle and long as possible, and lined. That is more material and time. So the majority of the info here will pertain to that, but if you’re not making it full circle or lined, skip through any of the directions that involves those bits! And my goal is always to have as minimal seams as possible.
WHAT YOU NEED:
- Janome HD9BE, or similar
- Cape Fabric 1 (6 yards)
- Cape Fabric 2 (6 yards)
- Thick Wide Ribbon (preferably matching the darker cape fabric)
- Threads that matches the fabrics
THE MATH PART (PATTERNING, NUMBERS, ETC):
I call capes “neck skirts,” because that’s what they are. Your neck is the waist, your shoulders are your hips, and you have your length. Patterning a cape is the same as a skirt.
In my experience, as a 5’7” person, the perfect amount of yards needed (per fabric) is 6 yards.
- Lay out your fabric completely open and flat.
- Starting from the corner, working up/down the long side of your sheet of fabric, and mark your length/height (base of neck to floor/desired length).
- From the new point, go in the same direction, but mark the length of your neck wide diameter (one side of the base of your across to the other side).
- From the center of that length, mark the radius (half of the diameter), outwards. This will form the half circle shape.
- Repeat step 2 for the opposite end.
- From the half circle line, repeat the same steps, but applying the long length. This will result in a bigger half circle shape.
- VOILA! This is half of your cape. Repeat the same steps for the other half of the circle (to make a full circle) and again for your lining.
All together, this is using up 12 yards of fabric for the cape. 6 if you’re not going to have lining.
Sewing
- With the half circles, stitch ONE side together, with the seam being the center back of the cape. So for me, I have 2 red panels and 2 black panels, and I will end up with 1 red piece and 1 black piece.
- (Don’t forget to iron your seams) Lay the 2 pieces on top of the other, with the right side facing each other and the raw edges of the seams facing out.
- Sew the 2 straight edges and the entire outer curve of the circle. Leave the smaller curve (the neck area) open. Make sure the colors of your thread correspond with the fabrics. For example, if the red fabric is on top, the thread should be red, while the black thread should be in the bobbin.
- Flip the entire cape inside out through the smaller opening.
- Here you have two options: 1. Iron your edges flat or 2. Top stitch hem your edges. I prefer the 2 second option simply because it is easier for me and I think the manual top stitching would really keep the shape of the hem.
- After finishing your edges, lay your cape out flat, and push out any “bubbles” towards the opening. Make sure to pin this area to keep your fabrics in place.
- The purpose of ensuring your cape is flat is to avoid any “bubbles” forming with your lined cape when it’s hanging off your back. If your cape is not lined, you can avoid this step.
- Stitch and close up your opening. Fold the raw edges inside and top stitch.
THE FINAL STEP.
With your ribbon, cut two long pieces (varies per person and liking) and stitch each one to the upper corners of your cape (the small opening you just closed.
What is this? The ribbons are there to attach the cape to your body. You can tie it around your neck, or under your arms. 2nd option is ideal to avoid any safety hazard.