Four Fabric Quilted Project Bag

Created By:

Maureen Cracknell

Skill Level: Beginner

A Janome Tutorial: Four Fabric Project Bag

A Tutorial: How to make a Quilted Project Bag using four of your favorite fabrics!

These large Four Fabric Quilted Project Bags are fun to make, a great way to enjoy favorite fabrics and are so useful to have around! The most surprising thing about these bags, using your Janome, they are actually a pretty quick and easy sew! Let's get started!

Four Fabric Quilted Project Bag

Fabric and Notions Required

Materials List:

  • four fabrics measuring at least 6" x 18" (Grow & Harvest by Alexandra Bordallo for AGF)
  • two coordinating lining fabrics measure 11"x 14"
  • batting (Hobbs Tuscany Supreme 100% Unbleached Cotton) 
  • nylon zipper 12" long or longer
  • cord for zipper pull
  • ribbon for side loop (optional)
  • neutral thread (Aurifil 50wt 2310 Light Beige)
  • basting spray or basting pins
  • scissors or rotary cutter/mat
  • iron


Step 1. Cutting the Fabrics: From each of the Four Fabrics cut one 6" x 6", one 6" x 9" and two 3" squares.



Once cutting is complete, on a flat surface layout the fabrics how they'll be pieced for both the bag front and bag back. Now you'll ready to begin sewing!

Step 2

Step 2. Piecing the bag front and back:

Begin by placing one 3" square right sides together in one corner of the 6" square and if needed draw a diagonal line from the left to right corner on the wrong side of the 3" square.



Sew on that line and then trim 1/4" past the line. Press the corner piece open and set aside. Continue to repeat this step with the remaining bag front and bag back pieces, paying attention to orientation and placement, until all corners are pieced.


Sew the bag front and bag back pieces together beginning with the top two pieces, then the bottom two, pressing the seams in opposing directions.


Sew the top and bottom pieces together to create one bag front piece and one bag back piece.


Step 3. Quilting the bag front and bag back pieces:
Cut two pieces of batting larger than the bag front and bag back pieces and place them onto a flat surface. Center the bag front pieced fabric right side up on top of the batting layer, repeat with the bag back piece. To baste the layers together, place a curved arm safety pin through both layers every few inches, starting from the center and moving outwards, until pin basting is complete or use a basting spray to baste the layers together.



Attach the walking foot to your machine, if you typically use one when quilting, and quilt the layers together by sewing in one direction, top to bottom, every 1/2", using the triple zigzag utility stitch on your Janome set at a length of 7 and width of 3.5. Quilt the bag back basted layers in the same manner.


I love how this stitch combined with a high loft batting looks! This bag project is a great way to experiment and practice using the built-in stitches on your Janome before using a stitch to quilt a larger project.


Once quilting is complete trim away the access fabric and batting from both the bag front and bag back pieces to measure 11" x 14".


Step 4. Adding the zipper:

Gather quilted bag front and bag back pieces, two lining fabric pieces each measuring 11" x 14" and nylon zipper.


Begin by laying the quilted bag front piece right side up, lay zipper right side down (teeth side down) on top, centered, with the zipper pull at the left so the zipper’s fabric edge is aligned with the top of the bag front edge. Carefully layer one of the lining pieces on top, right side down on top of the zipper. Pin those layers in place.

9 x 6 in (1)

Use the zipper foot, if needed, and a 1/4" seam allowance and sew from edge to edge, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam, making sure the zipper is not in the way of the seam.

9 x 6 in (2)

Flip so the quilted bag front and lining are wrong sides facing with the quilted bag front facing out and press.


Top stitch a scant seam from edge to edge, stitching close to the edge of the zipper.


Lay the remaining quilted bag back piece right side up, lay bag front piece with the zipper now attached on top, right side down (teeth side down) this time with the zipper pull to the right, aligning the sides of the quilted bag back and front pieces. Lay final lining piece right side down on top, once again aligning with the top edge of the layers and pin those layers in place.


Again, use the zipper foot, if needed, and a 1/4" seam allowance and sew from edge to edge, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam, making sure the zipper is not in the way of the seam.


Flip open once again and press well. Top stitch a scant seam from edge to edge along this side of the zipper.



Now that the zipper is installed, we are ready to finish sewing the bag together!

If you want to add a ribbon side loop to the bag, this is the time! It's a nice addition so the option is there to add a keychain embellishment to the finished bag, however this step is completely optional. To add the loop, simply cut a 3" length of ribbon, fold it in half and attach it to the upper right side of the bag with a scant zigzag stitch.



Step 5. Final bag construction:

Begin by unzipping the zipper to a little more than half way. This is an important step because when you turn the bag out, if the zipper is not open, there is no way to reach through and turn out the finished bag. With the zipper now partially unzipped, match up the lining pieces right sides together and the quilted bag pieces right sides together, lining up the edges.


With the zipper teeth facing the lining side of the bag, use clips or pins to secure the matched up edges of the lining and quilted bag pieces. Leave about a 4" opening along the bottom of the lining pieces large enough to turn out the bag.


Beginning at the left side of the lining opening, using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew all the way around the circumference of the bag to the other side of the opening left in the lining. Be sure to back stitch at the beginning and the end of this seam.

Before turning the bag out, box the corners by pinching each corner together and aligning each corresponding seam, one corner at a time. Use a ruler and mark a line perpendicular to the side seam 4.5" long.

9 x 6 in (3)

Sew along that marked 4.5" line with a straight stitch, then reinforce with an added zigzag stitch to the outside of that line. Trim 1/4" from the seam allowances. Repeat this step for all four corners.

9 x 6 in (4)

Trim away any excess zipper from the bag before turning it out. Reach inside the opening left in the lining and pull the bag right side out. Use a point turner or rounded pointed object to run along the seams, zipper ends and corners to open up the bag fully. Give the entire bag a good steam press to smooth out all sides before stitching the opening closed and pushing the lining inside the quilted bag.


Sew the opening in the lining closed using a very scant seam allowance, sewing close to the fold.


Push the lining side into the exterior quilted bag side making sure to work the corners of the lining bottom into the corners of the exterior bag bottom.


Finish with a zipper pull by tying cord to the opening at the end of the zipper tab.



That's it! Now it's time to show off your new, functional project bag!



Project Bags

I hope you enjoy this tutorial!

Everyone is Talking about Four Fabric Quilted Project Bag

Wednesday, November 23, 2016

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Saturday, December 17, 2016

I like the concept, but the directions are "sloppy." Nowhere in the supply list does it mention the felt or the batting (how much?). Also, I would never use a high loft batting in a placemat, or a table runner, as I think that it would be too unstable for a glass. The next time I make these, I will cut out the batting (I use flannel) and spray baste it to the wrong side of the Dresden plate before I put the Dresden plate on the felt to cut out. I have not yet washed the finished placemat, and am hoping that the single layer of felt does not curl up, or become distorted after washing/drying.
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Friday, February 24, 2017

I made this today but your cutting directions need to be changed. You only need 4 of color 1 and color 3 4.5 squares for the triangles. Also the inner border, you only need 2 cuts as WOF is long enough to cut each in half to fit the sides.
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I've had this machine for only a week now. I bought it used from a lady who makes her own clothes, but she no longer needed the machine. During the purchase, she noted that she is almost sad that it's better to give it away because of how well the machine performed. (I also bought it along side a computerized machine of another brand.} She demoed the machine for us, showing it worked and gave us everything (including the box it came in!) She took amazing care of this machine. I have used it a few times now, and the directions for threading were easy to follow (albeit my hands are quite large so the lower looper was a pain, but that is no fault to the machine or brand.) And I recommend this machine to anyone who wants to learn to serge and wants a machine that can grow with them. I will happily use this machine time and time again.
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I made the Halloween treat bag for my new granddaughter and I’m sure it will last for years. No embroidery machine so I appliquéd the lettering. Need a little more skirt fabric for a better gathered look, and I used thin double-bias tape for the skirt hem, over edge stitch on skirt sides. I’m pleased with my results!
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I want to say thank you for teaching me this method of applique. I was able to do it with a small letters. This method is the best so far from all of those I've seen and tried.
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Thursday, November 30, 2023

I'd like to express my gratitude for teaching me this appliqué method. I successfully applied it with small letters, and, so far, it's the most effective among all the methods I've seen and tried.

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