Projects

Make Your Own Plaid Scarf

Created By:

Sam Hunter from Hunter's Design Studio

Skill Level: Intermediate

Using a plaid fabric for inspiration, create your own custom plaid design using nothing more than the Built-in decorative stitches of your sewing machine! This scarf uses a washable linen blend with a great drape on one side, and a soft, snuggly flannel on the other. 

Janome Supplies Required
  • Topstitch needles (either 80/12 or 90/14) for your machine
  • Walking foot or Dual Feed foot - use for all steps.

Janome Sewing Machine (Sam uses the Horizon Memory Craft 8900 QCP. For this project, she used the AcuFeed Flex Dual Feed Foot for all steps).

Fabric and Notions Required

Other Fabrics and Notions Required:
When I went shopping for this project, I chose the flannel first, and then the solid to go with it. You can use flannel on both sides, or linen on both if you prefer. Quilting quality cottons will work also - but they may have less drape. Of all the fabrics that we use, flannels shrink the most, so it's important to pre-wash your flannel before you start this project, even if you don't usually pre-wash anything. (Note: I have added the manufacturer's information where possible.)

  • 1/2 yard solid fabric (Robert Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen - Yard Dyed Black B142-1019)
  • 1/2 yard cotton flannel in plaid print or (Robert Kaufman Mammoth Flannel - Crimson SRKF-13933-91)
  • Various decorative rayon and poly threads - any decorative threads will work, but use poly and rayon embroidery threads for the best sheen. Avoid metallic threads as they may be scratchy when worn.
  • 1 package C&T Wash-Away Stitch Stabilizer (or any other stabilizer that sticks to fabric, and completely washes away) - you'll need about 4 of the 10 sheets in the package if you make a scarf like mine.


     

 

Choose your threads:

  • I have a decent stash of Robison Anton rayon embroidery threads and Isacord poly threads. I'm happy to mix and match them on a project like this to get the colors that I like best. I chose the ones that match the colors in the plaids. Don't fret if you don't find an exact match - close enough is going to work just fine, especially because the stitching will be on the side that isn't plaid. Slight variations of color also look richer than exact matches. You can also use variegated threads too - especially if you can find one that works well with your plaid colors.
Instructions

Cut the Linen:

  1. From the linen, cut 2 lengths 8'' x Width of Fabric (WOF).

  2. Cut one end off from each of these lengths at 45 degrees.

  3. Sew the two 45 degree edges together using a 1/2'' seam. Press the seam open. The diagonal seam helps the scarf drape nicely.
  4. Trim this length down to 73'' - this is a good scarf measurement for most people, but feel free to adjust to suit! Let's call this the Scarf Front, and the flannel (which we'll cut later) will be the Scarf Back.
  5. Take the scrap that is left over from this cut - this is your Play Piece.

To Make the Plaid:

 

  1. Take one sheet of the Stabilizer, and cut it into 1'' x 11'' strips.
  2. Peel off the backing, and stick the strips onto your Play Piece. You'll use this piece to experiment with how different stitches look, before committing to them on the actual scarf.
  3. Wind a bobbin with each thread you plan to use. Sometimes the tension that works well for a fabric might make the stitch look a little odd, and vice versa, so I like to match my top and bottom threads so that if my tension is a little off, the bottom thread never shows. It also doesn't matter on this project as the back side of the embroidered fabric will never show.
  4. Make sure you are using a Topstitch needle in your machine. This needle is hollowed out behind the eye, allowing the thread to pass more easily in the hole made in the fabric. This helps the delicate and decorative threads stay together and not shred. Start with the smaller 80/12 needle, and if you get some shredding, move up to the larger 90/14.
  5. Now it's time to play! Look at the machine stitching charts for your machine, and choose a few stitches to play with. Each 1'' piece of the Stabilizer will allow you to test two rows of stitching. So run through the possibilities on your machine and make note of the ones that work well for you. A note here… don't worry if you end up with a little bit of stretch or distortion in your fabric at this point - I've found that once it's washed and pressed, it seems to flatten out again.
  6. Once you've stitched your samples, give your Play Piece a quick soak in the sink to remove the Stabilizer, and then iron it dry.
  7. As you can see from my sample, I prefer the geometric stitches to the flowery ones. I also like the ones that make bold lines, so I'll be using several of those in my final project.
  8. Cut up more 1'' strips of the Stabilizer, and arrange them on the Scarf Front to make an overlapping plaid design. You can make lines diagonally, or you can follow the grain of the fabric and make it square up to the edges.
  9. FYI: I used a 45 degree diagonal, and placed the strips about 3 1/4'' apart. I stabilized and sewed all of the lines in one direction before adding the Stabilizer for the opposite direction. I also decided to do TWO lines of stitching on each strip of stabilizer for a really woven look.
  10. So… stitch away!
  11. DON'T IRON THE STABILIZER! If you put an iron on the stabilizer it might set the glue into the fabric or make a sticky mess on your iron.
  12. I know you are anxious to wash off the stabilizer at this point so that you can see your pretty designs, but don't do that just yet. You'll be washing at the end so that you don't have a frayed mess on your hands! If you want a quick preview of how it will look, turn it over and check out the back!

From the Flannel:

  1. Cut 2 strips 8'' x Width of Fabric. If you want to match the stripe up, cut at the same place in the plaid pattern for each strip.
  2. Trim off the selvedges, and then sew together along the short ends with a 1/2'' seam, this time using a straight seam as it's easier to match the plaid that way! This is now the Scarf Back. Press the seam open.
  3. Trim the Scarf Back to 73'' (or the same you used for the Scarf Front).
  4. Generously pin the Scarf Front to the Scarf Back, all the way around, with the right sides together. Don't worry about the stabilizer - it will get washed out once the scarf is completely sewn together.
  5. Stitch all the way around the edge using a 1/2'' seam, leaving a 6'' hole along one side for turning.
  6. Trim the corners, and turn the scarf.
  7. DON'T IRON IT!
  8. Whip stitch the turning hole closed with matching thread.
  • Now you can wash the scarf - use warm water and a gentle cycle to dissolve the stabilizer. Give it a good press when it comes out of the dryer.
  • Wrap up and stay warm!

Everyone is Talking about Make Your Own Plaid Scarf
Reviews


Tako
Beautiful
Wednesday, November 23, 2016

cpindzola
Around the Table Dresden Placemats
Saturday, December 17, 2016

I like the concept, but the directions are "sloppy." Nowhere in the supply list does it mention the felt or the batting (how much?). Also, I would never use a high loft batting in a placemat, or a table runner, as I think that it would be too unstable for a glass. The next time I make these, I will cut out the batting (I use flannel) and spray baste it to the wrong side of the Dresden plate before I put the Dresden plate on the felt to cut out. I have not yet washed the finished placemat, and am hoping that the single layer of felt does not curl up, or become distorted after washing/drying.
Txmaid
Fun Great Gift!
Tuesday, February 21, 2017

MargieARK
Teatime Quilted Tablecloth
Friday, February 24, 2017

I made this today but your cutting directions need to be changed. You only need 4 of color 1 and color 3 4.5 squares for the triangles. Also the inner border, you only need 2 cuts as WOF is long enough to cut each in half to fit the sides.
MickelSews
Great Machine
Wednesday, August 30, 2017

I've had this machine for only a week now. I bought it used from a lady who makes her own clothes, but she no longer needed the machine. During the purchase, she noted that she is almost sad that it's better to give it away because of how well the machine performed. (I also bought it along side a computerized machine of another brand.} She demoed the machine for us, showing it worked and gave us everything (including the box it came in!) She took amazing care of this machine. I have used it a few times now, and the directions for threading were easy to follow (albeit my hands are quite large so the lower looper was a pain, but that is no fault to the machine or brand.) And I recommend this machine to anyone who wants to learn to serge and wants a machine that can grow with them. I will happily use this machine time and time again.
rvstan
S9 Review
Sunday, February 25, 2018

I love, love, love my S9! It's sews and embroiders beautifully and it's simplicity of use amazes me. I would recommend this machine for both a beginner and an experienced seamstress. If I would ask anything of Janome it would be to upgrade the programming to run a larger hoop size. I understand that it can't get much wider but there is most definitely room for it to go longer. That is the only limitation of this machine.
pjmnana
PJMNana
Monday, February 26, 2018

I purchased a Memorycraft 15000 a few years ago and it was the best purchase I ever made! This machine can do just about anything you would would ever want! I love the capability of using the Acuedit app to set up my embroidery pattern on my Ipad and then download it to the machine! I love how my embroidery looks upon completion and I love all the good lighting it has to light up your workspace. That way you don’t need to worry about where to set up your machine. It also has plenty of room to do machine embroidery on any size quilts! There are many decorative stitches from which to choose that are outstanding! It’s hard to choose which one to use! There are so many great features it is hard to decide what I love the most. If you want to buy only one machine to last a lifetime, I would recommend this one!

DEALERS
The TWO Closest Dealers to you are:
44933 GEORGE WASHINGTON BLVD, SUITE 130 , ASHBURN VA, 20147
http://www.ashburnsewing.com
15926 Luanne Drive , Gaithersburg Maryland, 20877
(301)527-0598
www.capitalquilts.com
Find Additional Dealers