Projects

Manscaping Robe & Shorts

Created By:

Sam Fung - Janome Educational Coordinator

Skill Level: Intermediate

Michael Miller's "Manscaping" fabric served as inspiration for these fun "just for him" accessories. The unshaved man in your life will get a chuckle out of these great relaxing essentials!

Janome Supplies Required

Janome Supplies Required:

  • Any Sewing Machine
  • Serger (optional)
  • Zig-Zag foot A
  • Blue tip needles #11
     
Fabric and Notions Required

Fabric/Notions Required:

  • McCall’s Pattern #6231
  • Fabric
  • All purpose sewing thread (to match fabric)
  • 2 ¾ yd. of ½” knit elastic
  • Rotary cutter and mat
  • Straight pins
  • Bodkin
     
Instructions

Cutting Instructions:

  • Refer to pattern envelope for yardage needed for Robe and Boxers.
  • For Robe A or B you will need pattern pieces 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8.
  • For Boxers you will need pieces 15 and 16.
  • Locate all pattern pieces needed and cut out. Press patterns to remove all wrinkles.
  • Refer to pattern instructions for pattern layout. Cut all pieces out and transfer notches from pattern to fabric.

Sewing Directions for Robe A or B:

  1. Thread machine and bobbin with all purpose sewing thread. Attach Zig-Zag foot A.
  2. Fold belt loop carrier (pattern piece 1) in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch long edges together, using a 3/8” seam allowance.
  3. Cut seam allowance back to ¼”, and turn right sides out. Press.
  4. Cut 2 carriers from this strip, by measuring 5 ¼” each. Discard excess.
  5. Fold each carrier in half with raw edges together. Pin.
  6. Pin one carrier to each side edge of front robe (pattern 2) as indicated on the pattern marking. Have the raw edge of the carrier facing downward and baste into position.
  7. Stitch each robe front to robe back (pattern # 4) at shoulder seams using a 5/8” seam allowance, matching notches. Press seams open.
  8. Pin front to back at sides, right sides together, matching notches. Stitch from lower edge to circle with a 5/8” seam allowance. Back stitch at the beginning and end to reinforce the stitches. Press seam open.
  9. If you have a Serger, serge the side and shoulder seams. If not, finish seams with a zigzag or overlock stitch to prevent fabric from unraveling.
  10. Finish the raw edge on bottom of robe, by turning it up ¼” and then another 1 ¼”. Or use a zigzag stitch before making the 1 ¼” hem.
  11. Sew the hem on the bottom of the robe using a blind hem stitch on your machine. If you don’t have that stitch than hand stitch in place.
  12. Stay-stitch the back neck edge between the shoulders seams with a ½” from the raw edge.
  13. Sew the center back seam of front band (pattern piece 5). Press seam open. Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together and press.
  14. Open up band and press under 5/8” on the long un-notched edge of front band.
  15. Pin band to robe, right sides together, matching notches, center backs and circles to shoulder seams. (Band will extend 5/8” beyond the hem.) Stitch, starting at bottom and clipping back neck edge close to stay-stitching as necessary.
  16. Trim seam allowances to ¼” and press toward band.
  17. Fold band right sides together on bottom fronts and stitch ends. Cut corners diagonally, grade seams.
  18. Turn right sides out and push corner out. Press the center fold and the ¼” fold on band so you will have a sharp crease. Pin open edge of band to edge of robe front and edge stitch close.
  19. Pin sleeves (pattern 6) right sides together, starting at lower edge and continuing to circle. Sew. Press seams open. Serge or overcast raw edges of seams.
  20. Press under 5/8” (pattern 7) on un-notched ends of each sleeve band. Open up the fold and stitch the short ends together.
  21. Stitch sleeve band to sleeve, with right sides together, matching up notches. Press sleeve seams towards sleeve band.
  22. Fold sleeve band wrong sides together and edgestitch along the 5/8” fold.
  23. Pin sleeve to armhole, right sides together, matching notches, small circle to shoulder seam and sew.
  24. Turn seam allowances toward sleeve. Serge or use an overcast stitch on raw edges. Press.
  25. Sew center seam on tie belt (pattern 8).
  26. Fold tie belt in half lengthwise, with right sides together. Stitch the 2 short ends closed first. Then start stitching from the ends toward the center of the tie belt. Leave an opening for turning right side out, near the center.
  27. Turn right side out and press. Slipstitch the opening closed.

Sewing Directions for Shorts:

  1. Stitch one front pieces (pattern 15) to one back piece (pattern 16) with right sides together at leg seam with a  5/8” seam allowance. Repeat for the 2nd leg. Press seams open.
  2. Serge or use an overcast seam on raw edges of seams.
  3. Pin the front/back sections together at center seam. Sew a 5/8” seam allowance to create the inside leg seam.
  4. To reinforce the curve, stitch again 3/8” from the raw edge between notches. Cut seam allowances close to second stitching.
  5. Press seam allowances open above notches.
  6. Stitch front to back at side seams using 5/8” seam allowance. Press seams open and serge or use an overcast stitch on raw edges.
  7. Using a long basting stitch, baste all seam allowances to garment in casing area, (about 3” down) close to the edge for easier elastic insertion.
  8. Serge or use an overcast stitch on raw edge.
  9. To make casing, turn down 1 ½” on upper edge of garment. Press.
  10. Measure 5/8” from top fold and stitch all the way around leaving on opening to insert elastic.
  11. Stitch again 5/8” above first stitching, leaving an opening directly above first opening.
  12. Cut two pieces of elastic each a comfortable waist measurement.
  13. Insert elastic through upper casing with a bodkin, lap ends of elastic over ½” and stitch elastic. Repeat this for the lower elastic.
  14. Sew opening in casings closed.
  15. Try on and adjust fullness. Pin at seams. On outside, stitch across seam lines in casting area to hold elastic in place.
  16. Turn up the boxer hems ¼” and press. Turn up 1 ¼” hem and press again. Sew hems in place. 

Everyone is Talking about Manscaping Robe & Shorts
Reviews


Tako
Beautiful
Wednesday, November 23, 2016

cpindzola
Around the Table Dresden Placemats
Saturday, December 17, 2016

I like the concept, but the directions are "sloppy." Nowhere in the supply list does it mention the felt or the batting (how much?). Also, I would never use a high loft batting in a placemat, or a table runner, as I think that it would be too unstable for a glass. The next time I make these, I will cut out the batting (I use flannel) and spray baste it to the wrong side of the Dresden plate before I put the Dresden plate on the felt to cut out. I have not yet washed the finished placemat, and am hoping that the single layer of felt does not curl up, or become distorted after washing/drying.
Txmaid
Fun Great Gift!
Tuesday, February 21, 2017

MargieARK
Teatime Quilted Tablecloth
Friday, February 24, 2017

I made this today but your cutting directions need to be changed. You only need 4 of color 1 and color 3 4.5 squares for the triangles. Also the inner border, you only need 2 cuts as WOF is long enough to cut each in half to fit the sides.
MickelSews
Great Machine
Wednesday, August 30, 2017

I've had this machine for only a week now. I bought it used from a lady who makes her own clothes, but she no longer needed the machine. During the purchase, she noted that she is almost sad that it's better to give it away because of how well the machine performed. (I also bought it along side a computerized machine of another brand.} She demoed the machine for us, showing it worked and gave us everything (including the box it came in!) She took amazing care of this machine. I have used it a few times now, and the directions for threading were easy to follow (albeit my hands are quite large so the lower looper was a pain, but that is no fault to the machine or brand.) And I recommend this machine to anyone who wants to learn to serge and wants a machine that can grow with them. I will happily use this machine time and time again.
rvstan
S9 Review
Sunday, February 25, 2018

I love, love, love my S9! It's sews and embroiders beautifully and it's simplicity of use amazes me. I would recommend this machine for both a beginner and an experienced seamstress. If I would ask anything of Janome it would be to upgrade the programming to run a larger hoop size. I understand that it can't get much wider but there is most definitely room for it to go longer. That is the only limitation of this machine.
pjmnana
PJMNana
Monday, February 26, 2018

I purchased a Memorycraft 15000 a few years ago and it was the best purchase I ever made! This machine can do just about anything you would would ever want! I love the capability of using the Acuedit app to set up my embroidery pattern on my Ipad and then download it to the machine! I love how my embroidery looks upon completion and I love all the good lighting it has to light up your workspace. That way you don’t need to worry about where to set up your machine. It also has plenty of room to do machine embroidery on any size quilts! There are many decorative stitches from which to choose that are outstanding! It’s hard to choose which one to use! There are so many great features it is hard to decide what I love the most. If you want to buy only one machine to last a lifetime, I would recommend this one!

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