Projects

Easy Neckline Finish for Woven Tops

Created By:

Alison O' Grady

Skill Level: Intermediate

Hello there fellow Sewists! I’d love to share with you my very favorite neckline finish technique that I use the most with my woven tops, tunics and tees.

I do not care for facings that need to be interfaced and edge finished! That is taking time from me wearing that beautiful finished garment. The bias will begin on the shoulder as it is more professional looking than having it in the center back.

When you are planning the layout process for your new top, keep in mind that you will need a bias strip for the neckline finish that will measure 1 inch wide by approximately 30 inches long depending on the total circumference of your neckline. I like to leave it a bit longer if possible BUT, you can always piece it so don’t fret.

Get your Janome machine set up with thread, bobbin and the usual supplies. Let’s go! My favorite Tee pattern is by Grainline Studios, The Scout Tee. It has no bust darts and having had a bilateral mastectomy, it fits me the best with no adjustments, like removing the bust darts. It is an easy pattern to add some room around the waist/hip area as well.

 

Instructions
  1. I sew the front of the tee to the back at the shoulders. Press towards the back after serging so it is nice and flat. Put aside for a moment.

  2. Prepare the bias for your neckline by cutting a strip 1 inch wide by the total circumference of your neck edge. I make a size 14 tee and I cut 28 inches long by 1 inch. Take that strip to the ironing board and press one of the long edges, ¼ of an inch towards the wrong side. 

  3. Fold one short edge of the bias on a 45 degree angle as shown in photo 1.

Apply the raw, unpressed edge of the bias strip to the WRONG side of your neckline placing the bias as pictured in the photo above.

Notice where the purple pin on the left is to show you where the fold on the bias needs to be placed. This will ensure a nice finish, ending at the shoulder seam. Stitch the bias to the neckline at ¼ seam allowance, stretching the bias slightly as you go. When you get to the end, overlap the ending of the bias by ⅛ of an inch. Trim off the excess and grade where the 2 ends meet at the shoulder to reduce bulk.

  1. With the wrong side of the garment facing up, press the seam allowance and bias towards the center of the neck of the garment.

  2. Understitching to some sewists is UNnecessary but here, it keeps everything nice and flat. Pull that bias out with the seam towards the center of the neckline and stitch very close to the inside edge as in the photo below.

  1. Now with the right side of the garment up, let's fold the already pressed edge of the bias over our raw edge just to where it will cover the previous stitching when we first applied it. How neat this will look!

  • I am not a fan of pinning but I must URGE you to do this for accuracy. (I am not a fan of the seam ripper either!) Pin the entire edge of that beautiful bias covering your neckline as in the photo below.

  • Begin sewing at the shoulder where your bias began at the folded edge. Stitch slowly all the way around. Backstitch at the end. 

Admire your new,and neat neckline! Photo 7. I have done this technique over and over and love it so. Please give it a try!

 

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Reviews


Tako
Beautiful
Wednesday, November 23, 2016

cpindzola
Around the Table Dresden Placemats
Saturday, December 17, 2016

I like the concept, but the directions are "sloppy." Nowhere in the supply list does it mention the felt or the batting (how much?). Also, I would never use a high loft batting in a placemat, or a table runner, as I think that it would be too unstable for a glass. The next time I make these, I will cut out the batting (I use flannel) and spray baste it to the wrong side of the Dresden plate before I put the Dresden plate on the felt to cut out. I have not yet washed the finished placemat, and am hoping that the single layer of felt does not curl up, or become distorted after washing/drying.
Txmaid
Fun Great Gift!
Tuesday, February 21, 2017

MargieARK
Teatime Quilted Tablecloth
Friday, February 24, 2017

I made this today but your cutting directions need to be changed. You only need 4 of color 1 and color 3 4.5 squares for the triangles. Also the inner border, you only need 2 cuts as WOF is long enough to cut each in half to fit the sides.
MickelSews
Great Machine
Wednesday, August 30, 2017

I've had this machine for only a week now. I bought it used from a lady who makes her own clothes, but she no longer needed the machine. During the purchase, she noted that she is almost sad that it's better to give it away because of how well the machine performed. (I also bought it along side a computerized machine of another brand.} She demoed the machine for us, showing it worked and gave us everything (including the box it came in!) She took amazing care of this machine. I have used it a few times now, and the directions for threading were easy to follow (albeit my hands are quite large so the lower looper was a pain, but that is no fault to the machine or brand.) And I recommend this machine to anyone who wants to learn to serge and wants a machine that can grow with them. I will happily use this machine time and time again.
rvstan
S9 Review
Sunday, February 25, 2018

I love, love, love my S9! It's sews and embroiders beautifully and it's simplicity of use amazes me. I would recommend this machine for both a beginner and an experienced seamstress. If I would ask anything of Janome it would be to upgrade the programming to run a larger hoop size. I understand that it can't get much wider but there is most definitely room for it to go longer. That is the only limitation of this machine.
pjmnana
PJMNana
Monday, February 26, 2018

I purchased a Memorycraft 15000 a few years ago and it was the best purchase I ever made! This machine can do just about anything you would would ever want! I love the capability of using the Acuedit app to set up my embroidery pattern on my Ipad and then download it to the machine! I love how my embroidery looks upon completion and I love all the good lighting it has to light up your workspace. That way you don’t need to worry about where to set up your machine. It also has plenty of room to do machine embroidery on any size quilts! There are many decorative stitches from which to choose that are outstanding! It’s hard to choose which one to use! There are so many great features it is hard to decide what I love the most. If you want to buy only one machine to last a lifetime, I would recommend this one!

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