Projects

Finish Your FOE (Fold Over Elastic) Like A Pro!

Created By:

Jacquline Terry

Skill Level: Intermediate

I am OBSESSED with learning how to re-create professional finishes in the comfort of my own home. I have set out to copy my favorite sports bra. I find this is the best way to walk through how something is put together professionally and made to last a long useful life, hopefully.

Instructions

What is Fold Over Elastic?

“ Fold Over Elastic” is an elastic widely used in ready to wear garments. It is easy to spot and defined by an elastic you can fold down the center. This type of elastic is lightweight and has great recovery! The elastic is sandwiched over the fabric on top and bottom and attached usually with a Cover Stitch Machine for high performance fabrics and stretch/ knits. This elastic is typically shiny on the finished side. Fold Over Elastic can come in many width options with 5/8” being the most common.

 

Why use fold over elastic?

Fold over elastic finishes the edge of the garment and adds structure/ elasticity to the edge line in one step.

 

I think you will find this application to be on multiple pieces of clothing in your wardrobe. This method can be used on sportswear, underwear/ lingerie, as well as under garments / tank tops and so much more!

 

Trace out your garment to make a pattern!

 

First I began by tracing out the garment to make a pattern. When finishing with fold over elastic you will not need to add seam allowance. This is because the fold over elastic encases the raw edge at the “edge line”. Only add seam allowance where seams are sewn together (at the shoulders and side seams).

 

Cut out the Pattern Pieces in your fabric.

 

 

Keep in mind you DO NOT need seam allowance where your FOE Fold Over Elastic will go. Only where you will seam your garment together.

 

Assemble Your Garment

 

For the next step I assembled the garment. Options for the seams include: Sewing the seams together using a stretch stitch on your sewing machine or Serger like the Janome AirThread 2000D.

 

Pin on Your Elastic

I then measured the elastic on the garment I am copying. I cut two strips, one for each arm hole opening and one for the neckline. I then cut out a thicker band for the under bust. Before pinning the elastic to the garment you will need to seam the elastic together to make one continuous loop.

 

 

 

I recommend to pin the elastic to the garment before attaching it. You will  stretch out the length of the opening and pin the elastic around the opening. Work your way around the opening while holding the elastic against the inside of the garment. This picture shows the elastic pinned and the garment right side facing you. (Reminder: The shiny side of the elastic is the finished side.) The fabric should line up just shy of the elastic’s fold line.

 

 

 

Attach Your Elastic

 

I used a zig zag stitch to roughly attach the fold over elastic. I set my machine to a wide Zig Zag with my stitch length at 4. This extra step will ensure that when you come back to cover stitch your elastic, you will not miss your garment’s edge or struggle to fold it and sew. TIP: You can also use this step to try on your garment for fit and easily adjust the elastic if needed. The Picture below shows the zig zag basting stitch has held the elastic in place before I start the cover stitch.

 

 

 

 

TIME TO COVER STITCH

Using my Janome CoverPro 3000 Professional, I fold over the elastic remaining onto the front face of the garment and top stitch. TIP: Do not pull your fabric or elastic through the cover stitch machine while sewing.

 

 

You will notice, using the CoverPro 3000, your garment will look professional top and bottom. I am using wooly Nylon thread in this example for maximum stretch and fiber matching. TIP: using the AUTO THREADER is essential to threading wooly nylon thread into your machine. If you do not have access to a CoverPro 3000, don’t worry you can zigzag this step on your Janome Sewing Machine!

 

Sit Back and Admire

 

 

Trying to achieve Factory finishes can be intimidating. This is why I like to work through a garment and copy how it should be sewn to get comfortable with techniques like these. Fold Over Elastic is definitely an industry standard but I recommend trying it out. Finishing your garment with FOE Fold Over Elastic will ensure your work looks just as good if not better than store-bought!

 

 

Did you enjoy this post? For more from Jacquline Terry head over to her website. LINK HERE

 

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Reviews


Tako
Beautiful
Wednesday, November 23, 2016

cpindzola
Around the Table Dresden Placemats
Saturday, December 17, 2016

I like the concept, but the directions are "sloppy." Nowhere in the supply list does it mention the felt or the batting (how much?). Also, I would never use a high loft batting in a placemat, or a table runner, as I think that it would be too unstable for a glass. The next time I make these, I will cut out the batting (I use flannel) and spray baste it to the wrong side of the Dresden plate before I put the Dresden plate on the felt to cut out. I have not yet washed the finished placemat, and am hoping that the single layer of felt does not curl up, or become distorted after washing/drying.
Txmaid
Fun Great Gift!
Tuesday, February 21, 2017

MargieARK
Teatime Quilted Tablecloth
Friday, February 24, 2017

I made this today but your cutting directions need to be changed. You only need 4 of color 1 and color 3 4.5 squares for the triangles. Also the inner border, you only need 2 cuts as WOF is long enough to cut each in half to fit the sides.
MickelSews
Great Machine
Wednesday, August 30, 2017

I've had this machine for only a week now. I bought it used from a lady who makes her own clothes, but she no longer needed the machine. During the purchase, she noted that she is almost sad that it's better to give it away because of how well the machine performed. (I also bought it along side a computerized machine of another brand.} She demoed the machine for us, showing it worked and gave us everything (including the box it came in!) She took amazing care of this machine. I have used it a few times now, and the directions for threading were easy to follow (albeit my hands are quite large so the lower looper was a pain, but that is no fault to the machine or brand.) And I recommend this machine to anyone who wants to learn to serge and wants a machine that can grow with them. I will happily use this machine time and time again.
rvstan
S9 Review
Sunday, February 25, 2018

I love, love, love my S9! It's sews and embroiders beautifully and it's simplicity of use amazes me. I would recommend this machine for both a beginner and an experienced seamstress. If I would ask anything of Janome it would be to upgrade the programming to run a larger hoop size. I understand that it can't get much wider but there is most definitely room for it to go longer. That is the only limitation of this machine.
pjmnana
PJMNana
Monday, February 26, 2018

I purchased a Memorycraft 15000 a few years ago and it was the best purchase I ever made! This machine can do just about anything you would would ever want! I love the capability of using the Acuedit app to set up my embroidery pattern on my Ipad and then download it to the machine! I love how my embroidery looks upon completion and I love all the good lighting it has to light up your workspace. That way you don’t need to worry about where to set up your machine. It also has plenty of room to do machine embroidery on any size quilts! There are many decorative stitches from which to choose that are outstanding! It’s hard to choose which one to use! There are so many great features it is hard to decide what I love the most. If you want to buy only one machine to last a lifetime, I would recommend this one!

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