Projects

How to Add Ruching Effect With Drawstrings to a Dress

Created By:

Erica Bunker

Skill Level: Intermediate

The Staystitch Lola Dress had been on my radar for the longest. And when I decided to make it, I thought this would be a great dress to hack by adding this drawstring ruching detail to. So, let me show you how I added it to the design.

Instructions

I’ve been admiring the drawstring ruching trend for a couple of years now. I actually made a dress previously with this detail.

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I’ve been loving this style so much since I made this dress back in 2018, that every time I see this detail, I want to add it to something. So, I finally decided to do it.

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The Staystitch Lola Dress had been on my radar for the longest. And when I decided to make it, I thought this would be a great dress to hack by adding this drawstring ruching detail to. So, let me show you how I added it to the design.

This hack works best with dress that are more body conscious and fitted. And also, this tutorial assumes that you are working with a knit fabric. That’s why I chose a tank style dress. And also, before you cut out your fabric, decide how long your dress needs to be prior to ruching so that you get enough gathering. I like to use the gathering ratio of 1.5:1 or 2:1, meaning that where you want your ruched hemline to sit and how full you’d like it to be, you’re going to multiply the ruched space by either 1.5 or 2, and so on…

For this dress, I followed the instructions until the side seams. Go ahead and finished your side seams with your serger. For this pattern, the seam allowance is 3/8”. This detail works best with ½”-5/8”. If your seam allowance is smaller than that, you’ll have to add on to accommodate. Before sewing your side seams, go ahead make your hem on the bottom. And then sew your side seams.

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Press your seam allowance open.

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Using your dress form or trying on the dress, decide how far up you would like your ruching to go. Mine was 30” up from the hemline. Make sure you mark it on both sides.

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Sewing Tip: When using my Janome Memory Craft 15000, I always use my walking foot to sew with stretch fabrics. So, for my edge stitching, I used the walking foot’s edge stitch attachment foot.

Edge stitch the outermost edge of the seams allowance to create a casing for your drawstrings.  But only stitch the sides! Do NOT stitch across the top, yet.

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For the drawstrings, I cut mine 35” long. My ruching space is 30” long, so I wanted to the drawstrings to be a little longer so that they wouldn’t get lost in the dress casings. I cut them 1.5” wide. With them folded lengthwise with right sides together, I stitched them using my serger using a ¼” seam allowance.

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Using a loop turner and a small safety pin, I turned the tube right side out.





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Using a safety pin and/or your loop turner, feed the tube through the seam allowance casing. At the top of the casings, leave about an inch of the drawstrings out.

Repeat this step on all four casings.

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At the top of your casings, sew across the top of the casings, across the drawstrings to secure into place.

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Pull on the drawstrings to create the ruching effect and tie them in a bow once you’ve achieved your desired fullness and length.

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For more from Erica Bunker follow her on Instagram @ericabunker

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Reviews


Tako
Beautiful
Wednesday, November 23, 2016

cpindzola
Around the Table Dresden Placemats
Saturday, December 17, 2016

I like the concept, but the directions are "sloppy." Nowhere in the supply list does it mention the felt or the batting (how much?). Also, I would never use a high loft batting in a placemat, or a table runner, as I think that it would be too unstable for a glass. The next time I make these, I will cut out the batting (I use flannel) and spray baste it to the wrong side of the Dresden plate before I put the Dresden plate on the felt to cut out. I have not yet washed the finished placemat, and am hoping that the single layer of felt does not curl up, or become distorted after washing/drying.
Txmaid
Fun Great Gift!
Tuesday, February 21, 2017

MargieARK
Teatime Quilted Tablecloth
Friday, February 24, 2017

I made this today but your cutting directions need to be changed. You only need 4 of color 1 and color 3 4.5 squares for the triangles. Also the inner border, you only need 2 cuts as WOF is long enough to cut each in half to fit the sides.
MickelSews
Great Machine
Wednesday, August 30, 2017

I've had this machine for only a week now. I bought it used from a lady who makes her own clothes, but she no longer needed the machine. During the purchase, she noted that she is almost sad that it's better to give it away because of how well the machine performed. (I also bought it along side a computerized machine of another brand.} She demoed the machine for us, showing it worked and gave us everything (including the box it came in!) She took amazing care of this machine. I have used it a few times now, and the directions for threading were easy to follow (albeit my hands are quite large so the lower looper was a pain, but that is no fault to the machine or brand.) And I recommend this machine to anyone who wants to learn to serge and wants a machine that can grow with them. I will happily use this machine time and time again.
rvstan
S9 Review
Sunday, February 25, 2018

I love, love, love my S9! It's sews and embroiders beautifully and it's simplicity of use amazes me. I would recommend this machine for both a beginner and an experienced seamstress. If I would ask anything of Janome it would be to upgrade the programming to run a larger hoop size. I understand that it can't get much wider but there is most definitely room for it to go longer. That is the only limitation of this machine.
pjmnana
PJMNana
Monday, February 26, 2018

I purchased a Memorycraft 15000 a few years ago and it was the best purchase I ever made! This machine can do just about anything you would would ever want! I love the capability of using the Acuedit app to set up my embroidery pattern on my Ipad and then download it to the machine! I love how my embroidery looks upon completion and I love all the good lighting it has to light up your workspace. That way you don’t need to worry about where to set up your machine. It also has plenty of room to do machine embroidery on any size quilts! There are many decorative stitches from which to choose that are outstanding! It’s hard to choose which one to use! There are so many great features it is hard to decide what I love the most. If you want to buy only one machine to last a lifetime, I would recommend this one!
KLWash
S9 Review
Sunday, February 24, 2019

The S9 is amazing. I learned to sew by hand when I was just 5 and in my grandmothers way as she was quilting. I took seeing classes in high school until they would no longer let me sign up. The S9 makes me appreciate my current skills as well as motivate me to want to learn more. This machine is awesome.
SewSueMe2002
Horizon Memory Craft 15000
Thursday, November 19, 2020

My Janome Horizon Memory Craft 15000 is fantastic! I love, love, love this machine! When I came across the Eye for and Eye embroidery design today, I wanted to make it. However, the embroidery file is missing. Nothing downloads when I select the download button. Please help!
Jillfmischo
Treat Bag fun!
Monday, August 16, 2021

I made the Halloween treat bag for my new granddaughter and I’m sure it will last for years. No embroidery machine so I appliquéd the lettering. Need a little more skirt fabric for a better gathered look, and I used thin double-bias tape for the skirt hem, over edge stitch on skirt sides. I’m pleased with my results!
elenaz
Very helpful tutorial
Wednesday, October 25, 2023

I want to say thank you for teaching me this method of applique. I was able to do it with a small letters. This method is the best so far from all of those I've seen and tried.
plonkar
So useful
Thursday, November 30, 2023

I'd like to express my gratitude for teaching me this appliqué method. I successfully applied it with small letters, and, so far, it's the most effective among all the methods I've seen and tried.

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