Projects

Reverse Applique on Knits

Created By:

Maday Delgado

Skill Level: Advanced

Working with knits can seem intimidating but it offers endless possibilities for creativity, especially since so many of our garments come with built-in stretch. I recently purchased a long sleeve shirt that looked beautiful and chic on the screen but when I received it, was oversized and not fashionable, so a few adjustments were needed. Using the right tools and a dash of patience ensured the success of this project. You can use reverse-applique (RA) to add design or cover blemishes on garments or home decor. Give it a try!

Janome Supplies Required
Fabric and Notions Required

Plain T-shirt

coordinating polyester thread

Janome red tip needle

chalk pencil

pins

knit fabric for backing

design stencil

AccuQuilt Go! cutter (optional)

GO! Arabesque #3 55050 die (optional)

Instructions

Note: Reverse applique will be referred to as RA

 

As I have fallen in love with sewing and a plethora of techniques, applique and reverse-applique have been at the top of the list. I prefer raw-edge, reverse applique (RA) and that is what I will demonstrate here. As you venture out to try RA, on knits or any other substrate, experiment with what works for you and your stash!

 

Below is another example of RA. Note: I stitched all around to cover the flower shape with background fabric before trimming around the pedals. I will remove the basting stitches before including this sample into a project.

Let’s see this technique on a garment.

1.    Choose a knit garment you would like to transform, maybe you have one that has blemishes from years of use or a new one that needs something special to make it pop.

2.    Decide where the design will be and trace with chalk pencil or carefully use your AccuQuilt die cutter to cut out a design quickly (be careful not cut through both layers of the garment).

3.    Smooth out shirt to view applique cut out (front of shirt view)

4.    Place RA background knit fabric (navy blue) under applique cut out

5.    Bring shirt front with applique cut out over the navy blue background fabric and pin carefully. Note: Make sure that the shirt’s back is not caught while pinning.

6.    We are ready for stitching! The HP foot is ideal for sewing on narrow details. because it provides great visibility on all sides.

7.    Remove each pin right before stitching to keep the fabrics from shifting (but not before). I used a stitch length of 2.6. Instead of clipping threads while sewing on narrow edges, I used the same stitching line to backtrack and continue stitching around the design without stopping.

8.    Knits don't unravel like traditional cotton, making it the perfect candidate for RA. Also, stitching further away from the edge provides greater stabilization.

9.    Here is another close-up view of the reverse applique nearly completed.

10.     Turn your garment inside out and trim excess background fabric carefully, at least ¼” from the stitching line.

11.    The options are endless for working with knits. Changing the background color of your reverse applique, changes the overall look of your garment. That’s what makes it so fun to experiment and have fun with! Revitalize older garments or new ones for a new look that makes it pop or has low contrast.

Share your progress if you try it on the Janome Sewing Classroom facebook page or by using the hashtag #reverseappliquewithMaday on IG: sustainabletextiledesign

 

Happy Stitching!

Maday

Everyone is Talking about Reverse Applique on Knits
Reviews


Tako
Beautiful
Wednesday, November 23, 2016

cpindzola
Around the Table Dresden Placemats
Saturday, December 17, 2016

I like the concept, but the directions are "sloppy." Nowhere in the supply list does it mention the felt or the batting (how much?). Also, I would never use a high loft batting in a placemat, or a table runner, as I think that it would be too unstable for a glass. The next time I make these, I will cut out the batting (I use flannel) and spray baste it to the wrong side of the Dresden plate before I put the Dresden plate on the felt to cut out. I have not yet washed the finished placemat, and am hoping that the single layer of felt does not curl up, or become distorted after washing/drying.
Txmaid
Fun Great Gift!
Tuesday, February 21, 2017

MargieARK
Teatime Quilted Tablecloth
Friday, February 24, 2017

I made this today but your cutting directions need to be changed. You only need 4 of color 1 and color 3 4.5 squares for the triangles. Also the inner border, you only need 2 cuts as WOF is long enough to cut each in half to fit the sides.
MickelSews
Great Machine
Wednesday, August 30, 2017

I've had this machine for only a week now. I bought it used from a lady who makes her own clothes, but she no longer needed the machine. During the purchase, she noted that she is almost sad that it's better to give it away because of how well the machine performed. (I also bought it along side a computerized machine of another brand.} She demoed the machine for us, showing it worked and gave us everything (including the box it came in!) She took amazing care of this machine. I have used it a few times now, and the directions for threading were easy to follow (albeit my hands are quite large so the lower looper was a pain, but that is no fault to the machine or brand.) And I recommend this machine to anyone who wants to learn to serge and wants a machine that can grow with them. I will happily use this machine time and time again.
rvstan
S9 Review
Sunday, February 25, 2018

I love, love, love my S9! It's sews and embroiders beautifully and it's simplicity of use amazes me. I would recommend this machine for both a beginner and an experienced seamstress. If I would ask anything of Janome it would be to upgrade the programming to run a larger hoop size. I understand that it can't get much wider but there is most definitely room for it to go longer. That is the only limitation of this machine.
pjmnana
PJMNana
Monday, February 26, 2018

I purchased a Memorycraft 15000 a few years ago and it was the best purchase I ever made! This machine can do just about anything you would would ever want! I love the capability of using the Acuedit app to set up my embroidery pattern on my Ipad and then download it to the machine! I love how my embroidery looks upon completion and I love all the good lighting it has to light up your workspace. That way you don’t need to worry about where to set up your machine. It also has plenty of room to do machine embroidery on any size quilts! There are many decorative stitches from which to choose that are outstanding! It’s hard to choose which one to use! There are so many great features it is hard to decide what I love the most. If you want to buy only one machine to last a lifetime, I would recommend this one!
KLWash
S9 Review
Sunday, February 24, 2019

The S9 is amazing. I learned to sew by hand when I was just 5 and in my grandmothers way as she was quilting. I took seeing classes in high school until they would no longer let me sign up. The S9 makes me appreciate my current skills as well as motivate me to want to learn more. This machine is awesome.
SewSueMe2002
Horizon Memory Craft 15000
Thursday, November 19, 2020

My Janome Horizon Memory Craft 15000 is fantastic! I love, love, love this machine! When I came across the Eye for and Eye embroidery design today, I wanted to make it. However, the embroidery file is missing. Nothing downloads when I select the download button. Please help!
Jillfmischo
Treat Bag fun!
Monday, August 16, 2021

I made the Halloween treat bag for my new granddaughter and I’m sure it will last for years. No embroidery machine so I appliquéd the lettering. Need a little more skirt fabric for a better gathered look, and I used thin double-bias tape for the skirt hem, over edge stitch on skirt sides. I’m pleased with my results!
elenaz
Very helpful tutorial
Wednesday, October 25, 2023

I want to say thank you for teaching me this method of applique. I was able to do it with a small letters. This method is the best so far from all of those I've seen and tried.
plonkar
So useful
Thursday, November 30, 2023

I'd like to express my gratitude for teaching me this appliqué method. I successfully applied it with small letters, and, so far, it's the most effective among all the methods I've seen and tried.

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