Enlarge the pattern 225%. Make a reversed copy also. Tape pages together. The pattern that faces forward will be your full size guide. The reversed copy is the one you’ll use to trace fusible templates.
Prior to cutting the background, cut the interfacing into a piece slightly larger than the 16½" x 23½", that you’ll be cutting the block. Fuse the interfacing to the back of the block fabric following manufacturer’s instruction. (Be careful not to trap any little threads or fuzz between the fabric and the interfacing.)
Once the interfacing is applied, cut the block 16½" x 23½” --- the block will be trimmed to 15½" x 22½" once the appliqué is completely stitched. The interfacing will nicely stabilize the appliqué and add a little extra body to the wall hanging.
Cut three (3), 1½" strips across the width of the fabric.
From one strip, cut two (2), 15½" x 1½" pieces.
From the other two strips, cut from each, one (1) 24½" x 1½" pieces.
Cut three (3), 3¾" strips across the width of the fabric.
From one strip, cut two (2) 17½" x 3¾" pieces.
From the other two strips, cut from each, one (1) 31" x 3¾" piece.
Backing and Binding:
Cut backing and batting 28" x 35".
For double fold binding strips, cut three (3) strips, 2" to 2½" wide, depending upon the thickness of your batting and the width binding you desire to make.
1. Trace shapes onto the paper side of fusible web. Remember to include overlap allowances where needed. Roughly cut around each piece. Fuse web to the wrong side of fabric, following the web manufacturer’s recommendations. Cut out appliqué pieces and peel off the paper backing.
2. To assemble the appliqué, lay the full size guide on top of a light source, such as a light box. Center the background block on top of the guide to determine where pieces are to be fused. The center of the design is marked on the pattern.
3. Apply the shapes to the background block. I like to lightly tack in place with the iron at this time, and then transfer to the ironing board to adhere the pieces fully. Another way to do this is to use tape that is easily peeled off, such as painter’s tape or pink hair tape -- and tape the pieces to the background. Gently remove the tape as you fuse the pieces in place.
1. Trace, fuse and stitch the long wavy background appliqué shape prior to fusing the rest of the appliqué.
2. When tracing this piece, extend the bottom and top edges enough to reach the edge of the block. This shape needs to go into the seam lines.
3. I traced this shape without making “cutout” areas so I could stitch the edge of the shape in one continuous line. A tip for fusing large pieces of fusible web; tack the web to the back of the fabric, then keep the iron moving while fusing. This will keep the web and fabric from getting “crinkly”.
See decorative stitching ideas in the next section.
4. After the long wavy shape has been stitched down, fuse the other shapes to the background.
Decorative stitching ideas for the appliqué:
1. Here’s the fun part. Time to get creative with thread and stitches! Just an FYI, I find it’s easiest to sew decorative stitches around appliqué if I set the speed control slider to about half speed or a little less. Always do these stitches in the needle down position so the needle stays safely in the fabric when you pause to pivot.
2. It’s a good idea to practice on a little sample fabric with some shapes fused to it, to get the feel and rhythm of the stitch pattern.
3. Use a variety of complimentary threads to enhance the project.
Some of the stitches I used:
Mode 3, Stitch 67, set at 7.0, 2.5.
I used this stitch along the edge of the long wavy appliqué shape. The stitch is directional and I wanted the little swirls to curve upward, so I stitched from the bottom edge to the top edge on each side of the shape. In order to keep this stitch consistent along the edge of the appliqué piece, I lined up the edge of the fabric with the inside right side of the open toe foot as I was stitching along the right. Then lined up the fabric edge with inside left side of the open toe foot as I was stitching along the left. Stop and pivot as often as necessary to keep the stitch running along the edge of the appliqué. This stitch pattern works quite nicely along a gentle curve, no matter where in the stitch pattern you happen to pivot.
Mode 1, Stitch 5, set at 3.5, 2.5 or 2.0.
I used this stitch along the insides of many of the appliqué shapes. I also sometimes used it with a different thread color, stitching around the outside of the appliqué shapes for definition. The three single stitches it makes show up decorative thread beautifully.
When stitching along the inside of a shape, keep the needle about 1/16" from the edge of the shape. Pivot often, sometimes every two or three stitches depending on the depth of the curve.
When stitching along the outside, keep the needle about a thread width away from the edge of the shape so the entire stitch lands nicely next to the piece.
Mode 3, Stitch 09, set at 2.5, 0.5.
I used this stitch along the edges of some of the appliqué shapes. It covers the raw edge of the shape. Stitch so the needle falls just outside the appliqué whenever the stitch makes its outward zig. When using this stitch, pivot when the needle is on the outside of the piece.
Mode 2, Stitch 73, set at 4.0, 2.0.
After I stitched around the edge of a small solid colored heart with a normal straight stitch set at 2.0 length, I used this stitch to add some texture. I stitched about 1/4" inside the edges of the heart. To pivot this pattern, notice that it makes one straight stitch between stars. The place to pivot this stitch is as soon as that single stitch is placed. Stop exactly at this point with the needle still in the fabric and pivot. Never try to pivot while the star is stitching out or you won’t have a nice star.
Mode 1, Stitch 1, set at 3.5, 2.0.
Yes, with decorative thread, an ordinary straight stitch, nicely executed can be just the thing. If you want to highlight another stitch with just a hint of another color, this is the perfect way to do it. Try a little metallic thread for big impact.
Assembling the quilt:
1. Once all the appliqué has been stitched, trim the appliqué block to 15½" x 22½".
Note: All seams are ¼”.
2. Using the ¼” foot, sew the 15½" inside border strips to the top and bottom of the trimmed appliqué block. Press seams toward border. Sew the 24½" border strips to the sides. Press seams toward border.
3. Continue attaching the outside border strips in the same manner, top and bottom first, then sides. Press seams toward border.
4. Layer backing, batting and quilt top. Baste and quilt. I use the acufeed walking foot to “stitch in the ditch” between the block and the borders first. Then I drop the feed dogs and switch to the free motion foot to stitch closely around all appliquéd shapes next with polyester monofilament thread. If you’re not as comfortable with free motion, you can also do this with the walking foot.
5. Quilt the background, borders, and any quilting in the appliqué shapes needed to keep the quilt even. Trim the backing and batting even with the edges of the quilt top.
6. Bind the quilt according to your preference. Sew the buttons on where the flower centers should be. Embellish with beads or crystals if you desire.