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  • 6/24/2021

    Making your own handbags is a great way to be able to customize your look no matter what the season or occasion! 

    Janome Maker Trish from Trish Stitched designed a new pattern just for you to start your bag-making journey! This DIY crossbody bag is perfect for those gorgeous large-scale fabrics but can also just a fab as an ophan quilt blocks bag! By using this pattern, it is your bag and your rules!

     

    YOU WILL NEED:

    - Upholstery or Heavy Weight Cotton (Exterior)
    - Quilting Cotton (Lining & Pockets)
    - (2x) D-ring (3/4")
    - (1x) slide buckle (3/4")
    - (1x) Tongue Lock Close (or similar closure)
    - (1x) 7” Metal Zipper

    Interfacing optional: Apply to the wrong side of the fabric. Lightweight iron-on Interfacing on the lining pieces and heavyweight iron-on interfacing on the exterior pieces. (For heavier weight fabrics, no interfacing needed on straps and strap pieces)

     

    EXTERIOR FABRIC

    Cut 1 of each
    - Body: 18" x 11.5”
    - Flap: 9” x 6.5”
    - Strap: 58” x 2”
    - Strap Piece: 6” x 2”

    LINING FABRIC

    Cut 1 of each
    - Body: 18" x 11.5”
    - Flap: 9” x 6.5”

    POCKET FABRIC

    Cut 2
    - Pockets: 9” x 7”

    (Strap Notes: Fabric not long enough? Cut 2 pieces 29" x 2" and sew together)

    Seam allowance 3/8" unless otherwise noted.


    Create Back Zipper Pocket

    Stitch open end of zip together on machine or by hand. Mark zipper placement (7" x 3/8" rectangle, centered) on wrong side of one pocket piece 1 1/2” down. Draw a line in the center of your rectangle with two small V’s on the ends.

    Place right sides of back pocket piece and exterior bag back piece together so your rectangle is 2” down from top. Stitch exterior rectangle. Cut center line of rectangle open, and cut into corners of the V’s. Cut close but not through stitching.

    Feed pocket through to wrong side. Press pocket.

    Line up zipper with the pocket opening. You can use hem tape or pins to keep the zipper in place. Stich around the zipper, securing zipper in place. With right sides together, sew pocket pieces together to finish the pocket.


    Sew Bag Body Together

    With right sides together, fold front and back of the bag together and sew bag sides. Press side seams open and folds each bag bottom to form a corner. Mark a line 2" long. Sew and trim seamline.

    Repeat steps for bag lining pieces.


    Make Front Flap & Bag Strap

    On one long side of flap pieces, curve two corners. Stitch right sides of flap lining and exterior together, leaving the non-curved long end open. (Draw curve for easier stitching). Clip curves and turn right sides out. Press and topstitch flap.

    Take the strap and press both long and short edges in ¼”. Fold and press long sides in half.

    Stitch all the way around the strap, and repeat for strap piece.

    Cut strap piece in half, making two equal strap pieces. Feed each strap piece through a D-ring and clip or pin raw edges together.


    Finish Bag Body

    Line up center of strap piece with the side of the bag. (I stitched 1/2" down from the raw edge of strap piece to make my strap piece shorter, but this is up to you!)

    Baste bag flap to bag back, right sides together,  and side straps to sides of the bag, right sides together.

    With right sides together, sew bag lining to exterior, matching seams. Leave a 4" gap free in the front of bag.

    Turn bag right side out, pushing corners out and pushing lining into the bag. Press.

    Following hardware instructions, attach tongue lock. On bag front, my tongue lock attached 3 3/4" down from edge. Topstitch bag closed.

    TIP: If your strap pieces are thick, hammer them before top stitching to reduce bulk while sewing.

    Take finished end of strap and feed through center of slide buckle leaving roughly 1 1/2” free. Stitch down. With wrong side of strap facing up, feed other  end of strap through bag D-ring.

    Feed the strap through the slide buckle. Continue to feed the strap through the remaining D-ring. Sew end of strap down.


    Enjoy Your New Bag!

  • 6/16/2021

    Father's Day comes at a great time of year for the dad that enjoys fishing and a summer fishing trip with a new fishing pole-carrying bag makes a perfect and relaxing afternoon.

     

    Janome Maker Heidi Proffetty has just what the Fishing Dad in your life will treasure! A free tutorial for a fishing pole bag using her Janome Continental M7!  Not only does the carrying bag sew up in a jiffy, but the fabric is also made from is waxed canvas which is both durable and water-resistant. You can also customize this bag. Make alterations to the overall length to fit Dad’s specific fishing pole length and change the bag’s accent panel to give it that extra special touch. Give him something he will love using the rest of this summer and beyond. 

     

     

     

    Skill Level: Beginner 

    Makes: 1 Fishing Pole Bag 

    Dimensions: 48” Length x 10” Width

    Time: 1 ½ hours

     

     

    Before You Begin

    Measure the fishing pole’s length and width around the reel (if the reel is attached). This will determine your specific dimensions and the amount of fabric that you will need for this project. This project is suited for a lightweight, freshwater, 4.6” to 5” fishing pole with an approximate 10” diameter (attached) reel. 

     

    Project Supplies:

    1 ½ yards of waxed cotton canvas fabric, Color: Moss

    ½ yard novelty upholstery or canvas fabric, Pattern: Fishing

    24” x 1 ½” webbing or belt strapping 

    20” piece of cording and a cord stop

    2 – 2” x 3” twill patches

    General color matching sewing thread for construction

    Scissors

    Fabric marking chalk pen (light colored)

    Cutting mat, rotary cutter & ruler

    Mini clips (not pins)

    Compass

    Glue Stick

    Janome Continental M7, Overcasting M foot & HP foot & plate

     

    Part 1 – Cut Fabric

    Use your rotary cutter, cutting mat, and ruler. 

    1. Cut 1 – 35 ½” x 12 ½” piece of waxed fabric

    2. Cut 1 – 5 ½” x 12 ½” piece of waxed fabric

    3. Cut 1 – 10 ½” x 12 ½” piece of novelty fishing fabric

    Part 2 – Sewing Instructions

    Set your sewing machine up with the Overcasting M Foot (or serger). Use mini clips to hold the right sides of the fabric together at each end. Position the novelty fabric so that the fabric is facing in the upright direction (not upside down) to the top section of the bag.

     



















    On the outside of the bag, using the fabric marking chalk pen, mark a center indications at 1 ½”, 6 ½”, and 24” down from the top edge of the bag. Next, draw a vertical centering line from 1 ½” mark to the 24” mark. 

     














    The 6 ½” mark will be the guideline for the top edge of the shoulder strap and the 24” mark will be the guideline for the bottom edge of the shoulder strap.

     











    On the wrong side of bag, use a glue stick to temporarily secure a twill patches to both ends where the strap will be sewn . The patches provide extra support for any tugging on the shoulder strap.












    Using a chalk pen, mark indications on the strap, 2 ½” down from the top and bottom edges.

    Fold the strap under a ½” at each end, sew the strap onto the right side of the bag at the 6 ½” & 24” markings you made. 

     

    To securely hold the strap to the bag, stitch on top of the strap around all 4 sides creating a box. Stitching close to the outer edges. Inside the stitched box, mark an X from corner to corner. Then stitch on top of the X markings you made. Repeat this for each end of the strap.

     

    Trim the excess fabric around twill patches close to stitching but be careful not to cut bag’s fabric.

    For neat inside seams, serge or fold the raw edges ¼” under twice. Using mini clips to hold folded edges in place. Then sew close to the folded edge. 

    To create the casing for drawstring at top of the bag, fold the fabric under twice ½”. Then sew close to the folded edge, creating an opening for the cording to pass through.











    Place right sides of the bag together, hold edges secure using mini clips, and tucking the strap inside the bag out of the way. Starting approximately 4 ½” from the top edge of the casing (top of bag), backstitch, then stitch (or serge) down the side seam or edge of the bag. This closes the bag and will create a long tube with a 4 ½’ opening at the top.

     





    Use a compass to mark and cut a 2” diameter circle from a leftover piece of waxed canvas. Fold the circle in quarters and mark to create temporary alignment markings.

    Starting at the seam on the bag, mark 4 (90 degrees) cross indications around inside bottom edge of the tube. Using the 4 cross markings on the cut circle to align with the markings on the inside bottom of the tube. Use mini clips and attach the cut circle to the tube aligning bottom edges evenly. Using HP Foot and HP plate (or your preferred sewing foot) to sew ¼” around inside bottom edge.

     

    Part 4 – Finishing the Bag

    Turn the bag right sides out.

    Using a safety pin attached to one end of the cording, work the cord through the casing. Add a cord lock and tie a secure knot at the end. Add a dab of glue to the cord ends to keep them from unraveling. 

     

     

     

     

    Now this fishing pole carrying bag is ready to go on Dad’s next fishing trip!

    Happy Sewing and Happy Father’s Day!

    Heidi

    www.heidi@heidiproffetty.com

     

  • 5/28/2021

     

     

     

    I am always on the lookout for ways to add personality to my quilts, and my current favorite way is with an improv pieced border.

    If you are not tech-savvy (like me) and you like to play with scale and design in a way that feels doable, this tutorial might be what you are looking for.

     

    I absolutely love the look of a slightly wonky triangle border but you could be more precise with your version.

     

    For this particular sample, I will be working with a finished block. If you are planning to use this technique, I think it’s helpful to work with blocks as your paper pieced length. It helps keep things straight and lined up nicely, especially if you are using this technique with a very large quilt

     

    My block size is 10 x 10” so I will be using a piece of freezer paper ( you could use printer paper or tracing paper) and drawing a rectangle measuring the block length x the height that I like. For this, I want my finished block height to be 2 ½” so I will be drawing my rectangle to measure 10 x 3”

     

    Once you have drawn the rectangle, measure down ¼” from the inside of the rectangle and draw another rectangle. The inner rectangle will be the area of the paper piecing.

    I like to find the center of the rectangle and make a little mark.

     

    Draw your triangles within the inner rectangle making sure that the points meet at the inner rectangle line. They can be any width but do need to meet up at a sharp point.

    Starting at one end, number the triangles like in the photo. This is the order in which you will be piecing.

    Roughly cut around this pattern piece, I like to cut ¼ - 1/2 “ away from the outer (cutting) line

     

    If you want all of the pieced panels to be different, now would be the time to draw them all out. If you will be making a large border, you could simply take this and make photocopies.

     

    I like to cut all of my fabric pieces in advance, always 1 “ longer and wider than each numbered segment. I find this helpful, especially when you are paper piecing angled sections.

    On my pattern piece, number 1 is green and number 2 is print. With the green on top of the print, I lay the pattern piece with the line between 1 and 2 running a bit more that 1/4”over onto the side of 2.

    You could put a dab of glue here to secure the fabric but since this is so small, I will just carefully hold it all together and take it to the machine.

     

    On my Janome Continental M7, I set my stitch length to 1.3 and sew down the line between 1 and 2, sewing a teensy bit past the inner rectangle line.

    Using a piece of cardboard or in my case my folding friend, fold the paper back on the stitch line and trim the seam to ¼”

     

    Open out your pieces and give them a good press.

    Next, with the paper pattern facing up, fold back the line between 2 and 3.

    Trim the excess fabric to ¼”

    Add the next piece of fabric, lining up the straight edges and carefully flip it over and sew along the line.

    Continue this way until you have sewn all of the pieces.

    Trim down the pattern piece to the outer line.

    Continue this until you have made the desired amount of border sections.

    I love this method! As a slap dash, fly by the seat of my pants quilter, paper piecing gives me the ability to still do things in my wonky improve way but with a precision that I love!

  • 5/21/2021

    Decorative stitches can be used in so many ways! These stitches are often kept for special occasions and not utilized in everyday sewing and almost never in quilting. Janome Maker Eliane from Patchwork & Poodles is going to show you how to to use a few of these stitches to create lovely quilting with ease!

    If you are just starting to quilt, this is a great way to get comfortable with handling the feel of the quilt when quilting. For the more experienced quilter, This can be your go-to when you need that fast finish for a gift or service quilts! No matter what the case, you will be thrilled by the results you can achieve with this method!

     

     

     

    Hi, I’m Eliane from Patchwork & Poodles! I’m a quilt pattern designer, which means I make a lot of quilts. I also primarily quilt all of these at home on my Janome MC6700P machine.

    While straight-line quilting is a fast way to finish a work in progress, I found myself bored of quilting the same way all the time. If you’re in the same boat, read on! You’ll find three decorative stitches you can use in your quilting, and none of them take more time than normal straight-line quilting! 

     

     

    The Set-Up:

     

    You’ll need to put your walking foot on your machine and mark some lines on your quilt. I like to use a Hera marker to mark my lines, but tape, a chalk pencil, or a water-soluble marker works well too. If you’d like to see more information about marking a quilt, watch Eliane's video:

     

     

     

     

    VI recommends that your marking lines serve as a guide for the edge of your walking foot instead of your needle. This makes it easier to follow. Luckily, all three of these stitches are pretty forgiving, so even if you end up going a bit crooked, no one will notice!

     

    Tips for success:

    • Practice on some scraps first to see what you like.  You can vary the width of the stitches for a wider or narrower design to suit the quilt you’re quilting.

    • Go slow! You should always stitch slowly with a walking foot, and this is no exception. If your machine can regulate speed, set that up so you’re not tempted to press the pedal to the metal.

    • Gently guide your quilt, don’t force it through the machine.

     

    The stitch widths and lengths provided below are a great starting point. Start there and then play around to find your favorite combination!

     

      

     

     

    Three-Step Zig-Zag:

     

     

    Three-Step Zig-Zag on a Zippy Quilt

     

    This fun stitch creates a wide zig-zag that is made up of multiple individual stitches. This one adds a really nice crinkle effect when the quilt is washed and adds a playful touch to any quilt. Vary the stitch length and width until you like the results. Just be sure that your individual stitches aren’t too small!

     

    Stitch: 011

    Stitch Width: 7.0

    Stitch Length: 2.5 

     

    The Serpentine Stitch:

     

    The Serpentine Stitch on Summer Glow Quilt (Free Pattern!)

     

    The serpentine stitch adds quilted waves to your quilt and is a good one to use if you want to soften a very angular quilt. Vary the stitch width to create a wider serpentine stitch. This is also a great stitch to use for water/ocean-themed quilts.

     

    Stitch: 096

    Stitch Width: 9.0

    Stitch Length: 3.0

     

    The Scallop Stitch:

     

    Scallop Stitch on Etoile Quilt

     

    This stitch is probably my favorite as it is so versatile. You can create the scallops right side up to look like lace or ocean waves, or upside down to look like clouds. 

     

    Stitch: 111

    Stitch Width: 9.0

    Stitch Length: 2.5

     

    After you try this method, be sure to take photos and share!   

  • 5/17/2021

    Welcome Back to the Janome Rainbow Quilt Block of the Month designed by Janome Maker Carolina Oneto!

    This month we will make our fourth block. The Dutchman's Puzzle is a classic design that first appeared in the late 1800s. Return of the Swallows or Dutchman's Wheel are two names for this block. About 1895, the term Dutchman's Puzzle was first used by the Ladies Art Company, a mail-order quilt pattern company. The pattern, titled Wheel, was first published in the Ohio Farmer in 1894.

     

     

     

    The Dutchman's Puzzle Quilt Block is so much fun to make! It's a basic block made up of pairs of Flying Geese blocks at its heart.

    A larger triangle (the goose) is surrounded by two smaller triangles in this surprisingly simple block. Typically, these blocks are designed to be twice as wide as they are tall.

    It's critical to choose fabrics with sufficient light-dark contrast.

    Remember that all the blocks will have a finished size of 12” so that means the unfinished size will be 12 1/2

    Fabrics:

     

    White background

    · Two 8” square

    Light blue

    . One 8” square

    Dark blue

    · One  8” square

     

    INSTRUCTIONS:

     

    Make Half Square Triangles (HST) 8-at-a-Time

    • Place (1) White and (1) blue square with right sides together (you will work with two pairs)
    • Draw a line diagonally corner to corner.
    • Sew a line 1/4” apart from the drawn line, in both sides.

     

     

    • Cut the square units in both directions and then diagonally, corner to corner.

     

     

    Press the seams and trim the block down to 3.5 inches square.

     

    • Arrange your HSTs in the correct layout
    • Using a quarter-inch seam allowance, sew together in rows. Join all rows, using a quarter-inch seam allowance.
    • Press your completed block and trim it down to 12.5″ square (if necessary).

     




    And that’s all! How easy was that block? Sew simple!!!!

     

     I hope you enjoy this new block! And don’t forget to share it!

     

     

     

    After you finish your block, please be sure to share a photo on your social media! We love to see what you are creating! 

    Janome Sewing Classroom on Facebook

    Instagram

    Pinterest

    Twitter

    Be sure to use the hashtags:

    #janomemakes + #rainbowquiltBOM2021 also, tag @janomeamerica and @carolina_oneto!

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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