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  • 10/2/2021

    The Log Cabin block is timeless and classic! While there are hundreds of variations of the Log Cabin pattern, the simplicity of the basic Log Cabin has always been a favorite for its ease of learning for beginners! 

    Janome Maker Annabel Wrigley takes you through the steps of making a Log Cabin Pillow on her Janome Contential M7



    This is the perfect beginner-friendly sewing project that you can whip up in a jiffy. With the holidays around the corner, they make the perfect gift!
    Supply List:
    . Strips of 7 different colors. Strips need to measure 2 ¾” wide.
    . 17 x 17” batting
    . 17 x 17” backing for the quilted front.
    . 16 ¼ x 12” pieces (x2) for the pillow back
    . Basic sewing supplies


    This project is sewn with a ¼” seam allowance.
    1. Start with a center square measuring 2 ¾ x 2 ¾”
    2. Attach a second 2 ¾ x 2 ¾” square. Use the above diagram for placement.
    Press the seam open.
    3. Roughly cut the next strip (3) and attach it according to the diagram. Press the seam open and trim to size.
    4. Continue adding strips in this way, trimming and pressing as you go.
    The above diagram will show you the order of the strip sewing.
    When the log cabin is completed, you may need to give the piece another trim to square things up.
    The finished panel should measure 16 ¼ x 16 ¼.
    5. Create a quilt sandwich with batting in the middle and a piece of fabric on the back.
    I like to use a basting spray to hold everything together.
    6. Quilt the piece using your preferred quilting method. See the video below for my favorite method.

    7. Trim the extra batting and backing from the quilted front.
    8. Fold down one long edge ½” on both of the pillow back pieces. Press. Now fold that edge over again and press.
    9. Topstitch close to the edge of the fold.
    10. With the quilted front facing up, lay one side of the backing face down on top.
    11. Add the second side – they will overlap in the middle.
    12. Pin around all sides of the pillow.
    13. Sew around all sides with a ¼” seam allowance.
    14. Snip off the corners.
    To prevent fraying you can zig-zag or serge the raw edges.
    Turn the pillow right side out and add a 16" pillow form and Voila!
    Stuff with a 16" pillow form and enjoy!
  • 9/29/2021



    Welcome Back to the Janome Rainbow Quilt Block of the Month designed by Janome Maker Carolina Oneto!

    This month we will make our eighth block. The Ohio Star quilt block was popular in the 1930s Depression-era and post-Depression quilts. It was a popular design among Scottish and Irish immigrants in the Midwest, and Amish quilters regularly employed it.



    I sew all the blocks on my Janome 1600P-QC , I recommend you to use a stitch length between 2.0 and 2.2 anyway this amazing sewing machine is capable of stitch length variables up to a maximum of 6mm!


    Please read through all of the instructions prior to starting this block. The block will have a finished size of 12” so that means the unfinished size will be 12 1/2."  All seam allowances are 1/4" unless otherwise indicated.





    White background

    • One 7 1/4” square
    • Two 5 1/2” square
    • One 4 1/2” square

     Red 1

    •  One 7 1/4” square
    • One  5 1/2” square

    Red 2

    • One  5 1/2” square


    Instructions for making HST four at a time:


    • Make four half-square triangles.
    • Place a white and colored fabric (red 1) square (7 1/4”) right sides together.
    • Sew a 1/4″ seam allowance all around the perimeter of the square.
    • Make two diagonal cuts and press each piece open to one side.
    • Trim away the dog ears using a square quilting ruler, you will obtain four 4 1/2” HST




    Instructions for making HST two at a time:


    Do this process with the 2 white squares of 5 1/2” and the two squares of the same size in red 1 and red 2. You will assemble 4 half-square triangles.





    • To make a QST take two HST’s from the previous step (one red 1 and one red 2) and place them right sides together with opposite colors touching.
    • Use a pencil or water soluble marker and draw a line from corner to corner, bisecting the HST seam.
    • On both sides of the diagonal line, stitch a 1/4” seam.
    • Using an acrylic quilter’s ruler and rotary cutter, cut along the pencil line.
    • Trim the blocks to a 4 1/2” square





    • Arrange your blocks in the correct layout
    • Using a quarter-inch seam allowance, sew together in rows. Join all rows, using a quarter-inch seam allowance.
    • Press your completed block and trim down to 12.5″ square (if necessary).




    Your block is now complete! I hope you enjoy this new block! And don’t forget to share it!



    You can still start today and catch up with the Janome Rainbow Block of the Month by visiting the links below:

    Block One     HERE

    Block Two     HERE

    Block Three  HERE

    Block Four    HERE

    Block Five    HERE

    Block Six      HERE 

    Block Seven  HERE   



    After you make your block, we’d love to see them!

    Janome Sewing Classroom

    Janome America Instagram – Be sure to tag @janomeamerica and use the hashtag #janomemakes and also tag @carolinaoneto!












  • 9/28/2021

    Photo Sep 21, 11 08 23 AM (2)

    A Tutorial: How to Make a Whole Cloth Quilted Pillow Cover with Envelope Style Back in Sizes 12" square to 24" Square
    Whole-cloth quilted pillows made using your Janome sewing machine is a wonderful and easy way to bring heirloom-quality style into your home, freshen up your decor, and enjoy favorite fabrics year-round, using just a few simple steps! In this tutorial, I'll show you how to use two different built-in stitches on your machine to quilt the pillow fronts and how to finish the pillow with an envelope style back in SIX different sizes. Let's get started!


    Materials List:
    Janome Sewing Machine (Horizon Quilt Maker Memory Craft 15000)
    walking foot for your sewing machine (optional)
    fabric depending on the pillow size (Plaid of My Dreams by Maureen Cracknell for AGF)
    batting (Hobbs Tuscany Supreme 100% Unbleached Cotton) 
    pillow insert or pillow you'd like to cover (Hobbs Pillow Pals)
    neutral thread (Aurifil 50wt 6010, 2692)
    basting spray or basting pins
    scissors or rotary cutter/mat
    hera marker or disappearing fabric marker to premark the quilting lines (optional)
    Size 12" x 12" square: one 12.5" x 12.5" square for main fabric, one 14" x 14" square of batting, two pieces of fabric measuring 11.5" x 12.5" for backing fabrics, two pieces of batting 13" x 14" for backing batting
    Size 14" x 14" square: one 14.5" x 14.5" square for main fabric, one 16" x 16" square of batting, two pieces of fabric measuring 12.5" x 14.5" for backing fabrics, two pieces of batting 14" x 16" for backing batting
    Size 16" x 16" square: one 16.5" x 16.5" square for main fabric, one 18" x 18" square of batting, two pieces of fabric measuring 13.5" x 16.5" for backing fabrics, two pieces of batting 15" x 18" for backing batting
    Size 18" x 18" square: one 18.5" x 18.5" square for main fabric, one 20" x 20" square of batting, two pieces of fabric measuring 14.5" x 18.5" for backing fabrics, two pieces of batting 16" x 20" for backing batting
    Size 20" x 20" square: one 20.5" x 20.5" square for main fabric, one 22" x 22" square of batting, two pieces of fabric measuring 15.5" x 20.5" for backing fabrics, two pieces of batting 17" x 22" for backing batting
    Size 24" x 24" square: one 24.5" x 24.5" square for main fabric, one 26" x 26" square of batting, two pieces of fabric measuring 17.5" x 24.5" for backing fabrics, two pieces of batting 19" x 26" for backing batting

    Whole Cloth Pillow Supplies

    Step 1. Quilting the pillow top pillow: Layer the batting with the pillow front fabric on top facing right side up on a flat surface. Pin or use a spray to baste these two layers together.

    Baste Layers

    The first pillow example is quilted using the built-in straight quilting stitch #1 on my Janome set at a stitch width of 4.5 and stitch length of 4.0.

    Janome Sewing

    Following the plaid pattern of the fabric I created a grid-like quilting design. If using a different fabric to achieve this similar quilting pattern premark the quilting lines using a hera or disappearing ink marker before quilting.

    Quilted Pillow Front

    The second pillow example is quilted using the built-in wavy quilting stitch #8 on my Janome set at a stitch width of 9.0 and stitch length of 4.0. Adding the wavy quilting both horizontally and vertically created a really fun pattern here that really pops!

    Photo Sep 17, 6 26 52 PM

    Once quilting is complete trim away access fabric and batting to the desired pillow size. The first pillow example (beige/white gingham) is trimmed to 14" square for a 14" pillow insert. The second pillow example (black/buffalo plaid) is trimmed to 16" square for a 16" pillow insert.
    Step 2. Quilting Pillow Back Pieces: Just as you did for the pillow front, layer each backing piece of batting with the pillow back piece of fabric on top facing right side up on a flat surface. Pin or use spray to baste these two layers together for both backing pieces. Mark quilting line again if needed and quilt the same as you did for the pillow front.

    pin in place

    To hem, fold over one long edge of the top back piece about 1/4 inch and then again. Pin and sew along the folded edge and outer edge to create a double seam finish. Repeat these steps for the bottom backing piece, as well.

    hem raw edge

    double hem finish

    Step 3. Sew Together Pillow Pieces: Lay the quilted pillow front right side up on a flat surface, then layer the top quilted pillow backing piece with the right side facing the pillow front onto the pillow front, then the bottom backing piece.

    layer pillow back piece onto pillow front

    pillow backing

    Pin or clip all three layers together.

    pin in place

    Sew using a 1/4 inch seam all the way around the pillow attaching all three layers to create the pillow cover, removing pins or clips as you go.

    1/4" seam all the way around

    For extra durability I then use the zig zag stitch on my machine to sew around the entire pillow again staying close to the raw edge to reinforce the seams.

    double secure with zig zag stitch

    For nice pointed pillow corners, I then sew a small diagonal stitch on the outside of each corner and clip away each of the four corners as shown below.

    clip four corners

    Turn the pillow cover right side out and press to make it nice and smooth before adding the pillow insert.

    turn pillow cover out and press

    Carefully stuff the pillow insert inside the pillow cover. making sure to work the corners of the insert into the corners of the pillow cover. Now you're ready to admire and enjoy your handmade quilted pillow!

    insert pillow form and done!

    Photo Sep 21, 11 10 43 AM

    Care and Maintenance: Remove insert and machine wash cover in cold water; gentle cycle. Lay flat to air dry or tumble dry on the lowest heat setting; remove promptly. Use a warm iron as needed to smooth out any wrinkles before reinserted the pillow insert.

    Photo Sep 21, 11 07 23 AM

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!
  • 9/17/2021

    For learning how to sew or for a quick sew, coasters are a wonderful choice! They are not a massive commitment of time or materials and will give you practice and a finished project quicker! 

    Janome Maker Natalie Barnes from Beyond the Reef Patterns created a great video to show you how easy it is to make scrappy Quilt As You Go Coasters on the Janome HD9 Professional. This project is for beginners to experts and everyone in between! It uses scraps and is also improv so there are no mistakes!  



    Supply List:

    • Four 5" squares of Insulbrite 
    • Four 6" squares of  background fabric
    • Ruler 
    • Variety of scraps

    Please watch the full video prior to starting project. All seam allowances are 1/4" unless otherwise indicated. Finished project is four  4 1/2" squares.


    After finishing this project, we invite you to share in the Janome Sewing Classroom  Facebook Page, Instagram tagging @janomeamerica and using the #janomemakes tag, or on Pinterest tagging @janomeamerica and the hashtag #janome so that we can repin you! 

  • 9/16/2021

    Cooler nights and diminishing sunlight are gentle reminders that we are transitioning into sweet Autumn. A season of change is also a great time to slow down and learn a new surface design technique, aimed at invigorating your current sewing practice.


    Welcome to hand block-printing on textiles! The blocks that I like to use are wooden blocks created by Indian Artisans. You can also create Lino blocks like the one pictured above, but you would have to carve them. Sometimes we have the most interesting printing objects around our house; look for objects that have interesting bases, random shapes that bring you joy, and are suited to hold on to ink without damaging the piece. The textile ink that I use is permanent once dried, but always water-based, never oil. Experiment with creating shapes on potatoes (cut in half), printing with broccoli or dry leaves found during walks or in your yard.

    By Janome Artisan Maday from Sustainable Textile Design




    The possibilities to create marks on textiles are infinite and the whole family can get involved. Print on fabric; sew your printed textiles into every day, machine sewn projects later. Use block-printing as the starting point for applique-ing with your Janome, monogramming, creating geometric shapes or simply, printing on garments to give them a new life.


    Helpful Hints:

    Practice printing on paper first; it will inform how much ink to use before printing on beautiful fabrics. You must apply more ink to blocks when printing on textiles.

    Cover tables to avoid damage and secure textiles using painter’s tape to create smooth printing surfaces. Allow fabrics to fully dry before ironing or sewing.

    I have included two brands of textile ink that I use; purchasing versatex which comes in smaller containers is more economical and allows you to explore without breaking the bank!



    2 Solid cotton or linen fat quarters

    (yellow and light grey) - optional

    Contrasting Cotton thread

    Organ needle size 14

    Wooden blocks for printing

    Strong, dried leaves from garden or flower arrangements (optional)

    3” foam brayer with plastic handle

    Speedball hard brayer (optional)

    Versatex screen printing ink – 326 navy blue (small container)

    Ecotex Jet Black Water-based ink (giant container, optional)

    Painter’s tape

    Paper or plastic to cover printing surfaces

    Small brush (helps displace ink throughout block)

    Cardstock paper

    Paper plate to keep ink during the printing




    Janome M7 Continental HP foot and plate

    Foot F open toe and zig zag plate



     Prepare surfaces by covering the table with paper or plastic.

    Use painter’s tape to attach textiles to the table for a smooth printing surface; this makes it easier to lift blocks once the ink has been transferred to the cloth.



    1. Load a small amount of Ink into a disposable dish or dish used solely for ink. Use a variety of leaves to print if blocks are not readily available.
    2. TIP: Practice printing on cardstock to learn about ink and pressure, for a smooth design print. Once you are satisfied, you are ready to practice on your fat quarters.






     Using the foam brayer or brush, apply textile ink evenly on a wooden block.


    Press block firmly onto cloth to make the imprint. Twenty seconds is a good estimate. Lift straight up to minimize ink spread. Tip: Cut fat quarters into smaller sections to make it easier to print.




    Tip: Add fabric cutouts and raw edge applique using the hp foot, to the center of the shapes (see step 7 photos below). Apply more ink to blocks for greater design depth and less transparency. You will have to reapply ink every time you wish to print.

    Mix it up by using different block combinations, fabric prints, and/or textile ink colors.





    Use the reinforcement stitch under Utility, to create more texture while stitching rows or adding raw edge applique. 

    I cut the printed, yellow block in ½, flipped and sewed it back together for a different look.



    You can follow the same format to create whole quilts or panels for garment making. For my complete scarf tutorial please visit Janome at https://www.janome.com/siteassets/inspire/projects/garment/boro-inspired-scarf/boro-insired-scarf-from-maday-delgato.pdf





    I love the look of upcycled materials or patchwork, that offer surprising combinations and liven up Midwestern winters. Adding block printing to projects, using the ink color you most like, gives you the flexibility to customize everything in our homes and even what we wear. It can also help us create a bridge where younger generations embrace machine sewing that includes playful techniques while honoring traditions.

    Below I share a few projects that include block-printed segments.


    I block printed on this store-purchased shirt with Ecotex Jet Black Water-based ink.



    The tote below was machine pieced using my Janome M7 Continental. The pattern is the Fika Tote by Noodlehead. I loved including the block printed panel (below), as part of the tote’s exterior pockets.






    I hope you make this technique your own and always have fun sewing.


    Happy Autumn!






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